Search Results for Tag: Winter Expeditions
While the winter expedition teams at the eight-thousanders K2 and Manaslu have only just moved into their base camps, the Italian Daniele Nardi and his three companions on Nanga Parbat are in a more advanced phase. Today Daniele, the Brit Tom Ballard and the two Pakistani mountaineers Rahmat Ullah Baig and Karim Hayat ascended again to Camp 3 at 5,700 meters, directly below the Mummery Rib. Five days ago, the four climbers had deposited a tent there and then returned to base camp.
Date15. January 2019 | 21:03
TagsDaniele Nardi, K2, Karim Hayat, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Nepal, Pakistan, Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, Rahman Ullah Baig, Simone Moro, Tom Ballard, Vassiliy Pivtsov, Winter Expeditions
Several winter expeditions in the Himalayas and Karakoram started in the first days of the year. Two of the three climbers who had succeeded the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016 met in Lhukla in Nepal, however now with different goals: The Spaniard Alex Txikon wants to tackle K2 in Pakistan, the last remaining eight-thousander to be climbed for the first time in the cold season, the Italian Simone Moro is drawn to Manaslu again. The 51-year-old and the South Tyrolean Tamara Lunger had failed on the 8167-meter-high mountain in western Nepal in 2015 because of the enormous snow masses of that winter. This year, according to the Kathmandu-based newspaper “The Himalayan Times”, Moro plans to climb with the Nepalese Pemba Gyalje Sherpa on the normal route without bottled oxygen. In order to acclimatize, they wanted to climb the 6,476-meter-high Mera Peak in the Khumbu region.
Date4. January 2019 | 14:06
TagsDaniele Nardi, K2, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Nepal, Pakistan, Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, Simone Moro, Tom Ballard, Vassiliy Pivtsov, Winter Expeditions
One and a half weeks in Africa including the ascent of the 5895-meter-high Kilimanjaro lie behind me. High time to look at the two winter expeditions on Mount Everest and K2. Because they provided plenty to talk about, especially the expedition on K2. First, however, to the highest of all mountains: As he had already done in 2017, the Spaniard Alex Txikon abandoned his attempt to scale Mount Everest in winter without bottled oxygen. A summit attempt last week ended at 7850 meters, just below the South Col, because the cold was much more severe and the wind significantly stronger than predicted.
Date28. February 2018 | 23:53
TagsAdam Bielecki, Alex Txikon, Denis Urubko, K2, Krzysztof Wielicki, Mount Everest, Winter Expeditions
Ready, go! “We are at 7,300 (meters). Terrible fight,” Tomek Mackiewicz is quoted on his Facebook page in telegram style. “If weather permits, tomorrow summit.” If not now, when?, we could add. On Thursday, by far the lowest wind speeds this week are expected for the 8,125 meter summit of Nanga Parbat: 20 to 25 km/h. In addition a few clouds and temperatures of minus 42 degrees Celsius. Thereafter, the wind is to refresh again and reach storm strength at the weekend.
Date24. January 2018 | 16:40
TagsDenis Urubko, Elisabeth Revol, K2, Nanga Parbat, Summit bid, Tomek Mackiewicz, Winter Expeditions
Do you already have aching muscles from keeping fingers crossed? Your pain could become even stronger. Because the summit bid of the Pole Tomek Mackiewicz and the Frenchwoman Elisabeth Revol that was expected already for Sunday is delayed. “We are in Camp 3, (it’s) windy (with speeds of) about 100 km/h,” Tomek is quoted today on his Facebook page. “Tomorrow Camp 4, summit push (on) 25 January. Good weather (is expected for) that day.” In fact, the weather forecast for the summit at 8,125 meters predicts for Thursday the lowest wind speeds this week: between 15 and 25 km/h. Assuming this forecast is correct, it will be almost calm, however with minus 42 degrees Celsius quite cold, some clouds are expected. Mackiewicz and Revol climb without bottled oxygen.
Date22. January 2018 | 14:53
TagsAlex Txikon, Denis Urubko, Elisabeth Revol, K2, Mount Everest, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Nanga Parbat, Pumori, Summit bid, Tomek Mackiewicz, Winter Expeditions
It’s time for the Pole Tomek Mackiewicz and the Frenchwoman Elisabeth Revol this Sunday. According to Polish media information, the two climbers wanted to start at 2 a.m. local time (Saturday 10 p.m. CET) from their last high camp at 7,200 meters towards the summit. It will be their first and last attempt, it said. For Sunday, clear weather with temperatures of minus 33 degrees Celsius and wind speeds of about 60 kilometers per hour is expected for the highest point of Nanga Parbat at 8,125 meters. Mackiewicz and Revol are climbing without bottled oxygen.
Date20. January 2018 | 22:16
TagsAlex Txikon, Elisabeth Revol, K2, Mount Everest, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Nanga Parbat, Pumori, Summit bid, Tomek Mackiewicz, Winter Expeditions
“We are acclimatized. We’ll try to reach the summit.” Tomek Mackiewicz is quoted on his Facebook page with these words. After about two weeks of strong winds, the weather on Nanga Parbat had improved, the conditions were good, it said. Tomek and his climbing partner Elisabeth Revol probably set off today towards their material depot at 6,700 meters.
Date18. January 2018 | 15:22
TagsAlex Txikon, Elisabeth Revol, K2, Messner route, Mount Everest, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Nanga Parbat, Pumori, summit attempt, Tomek Mackiewicz, Wielicki, Winter Expeditions
Alex Txikon is pleased with the progress made so far on his winter expedition on Mount Everest. On Sunday, the Spaniard and five Sherpas ascended from the base camp on the previously prepared route through the Khumbu Icefall, slept in Camp 1 at 6,050 meters and reached Camp 2 on Monday. “I am very happy, I did not think for a moment that we were going to reach Camp 2 at 6,500 meters in just one day and with a small team of only six people,” says the 36-year-old.
Date16. January 2018 | 13:03
TagsAlex Txikon, Elisabeth Revol, K2, Mount Everest, Nanga Parbat, Polish K2 winter expedition, Tomek Mackiewicz, Winter Expeditions
Three winter expeditions to eight-thousanders, three different phases. In Pakistan, the Polish team led by Krzysztof Wielicki today reached Concordia after trekking over the Baltoro Glacier and is expected on Tuesday to pitch their tents in the base camp at the foot of K2, the last remaining unclimbed eight-thousander in winter. Already six days ago, the Spaniard Alex Txikon, the Pakistani Muhammad Ali “Sadpara” and their Nepalese Sherpa team had reached the base camp on the south side of Mount Everest. They are fixing a route through the Khumbu Icefall. Like last year, Alex participates in the work (as the video below shows).
Date8. January 2018 | 17:13
TagsAlex Txikon, Elisabeth Revol, K 2, Mount Everest, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Nanga Parbat, Tomek Mackiewicz, Wielicki, Winter Expeditions
Nanga Parbat falls back into hibernation. After the 8125-meter-high mountain in Pakistan was bustling over the past years with expeditions who tried to climb it for the first time in winter, it now looks as if the “naked mountain” remains a lonely one in the coming months. This winter even the Polish climber Tomasz Mackiewicz will not change his living room – as he did in the last six years – with a cold tent on Nanga Parbat.
Date7. December 2016 | 17:02
TagsArjun Vajpaj, Lunger, Mackiewicz, Moro, Mount Everest, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Nanga Parbat, Txikon, Wielicki, Winter Expeditions
Over an out. The Russian winter expedition on Nanga Parbat is finished. Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval decided to go home. “Today is exactly the 45th day since we left St. Petersburg, and, unfortunately, the time for our expedition runs to the end. The mountain is clear at last, for the first time in two weeks, but there’re still snow flags on the top due to the strong wind“, the four climbers told Russianclimb via SMS. “We pack Base Camp and are going down.“ A few days ago, they had reached Camp 4 at 7,150 meters on the Rupal (south) side of the mountain, but had been forced back by storm and cold. Thus, only the climbers on the Diamir (north) side are staying on Nanga Parbat.
Date6. February 2015 | 17:55
TagsAlex Txikon. Daniele Nardi, Iranian Nanga Parbat Expedition, Nanga Parbat, Nickolay Totmjanin, Serguey Kondrashkin, Simone Moro, Valery Shamalo, Victor Koval, Winter Expeditions