Actually, he finds it nonsense that mountaineers are awarded. “Basically it’s impossible to compare any climbs, because every climb has a different emotion,” Marko Prezelj told me a year ago during the “Piolet d’Or” celebrations, the “Oscar of the climbers”. “It’s bizarre. It’s like you are making love and making an article out of it. If it’s poetry, maybe it’s okay. But it is a thin line between romantic poetry and pornography.” As in 2015, Marko was again awarded the Golden Ice Axe in 2016. Last weekend, the Slovene received the prize in La Grave in the French Alps, along with his compatriot Urban Novak, the American Hayden Kennedy and the Frenchman Manu Pellissier – for their first ascent of the South Face of the 6176-meter-high Cerro Kishtwar in the Indian Himalayas. Thus Marko is now holding a record that he actually doesn’t want to have.
Date20. April 2016 | 14:39
TagsAntoine Moineville, Diego Simari, Hayden Kennedy, Jerome Sullivan, Lise Billon, Manu Pellissier, Marko Prezelj, Mick Fowler, Mikhail Fomin, Nikita Balabanov, Paul Ramsden, Piolet d'Or 2016, Urban Novak
It’s a king-size pearl. As big as a football, artfully forged from metal, gleaming like silver. Yesterday the International Sports Press Association (AIPS) for the first time handed over the „Sport Media Pearl Awards“ during a ceremony in Abu Dhabi. According to AIPS it was the first global competition for sport journalists to appreciate the work of the „best sport storytellers“, because „without the story sport would be just a game“. These are the figures: 724 entries were submitted, in 29 languages, from 86 countries across five continents, in nine categories. One of them was „Journalistic Weblog“. I tried my luck – and, unbelievable but true, „Abenteuer Sport“ (Adventure Sports) was awarded to be the best blog.
I had only half a minute time to express my joy to the audience of the ceremony. Not so easy when your heart is beating like a drum. First of all I thanked my family who let me go on expeditions, despite all their fears. But I also dedicated this award to you – „the climbers from all over the world who live their passion and to the mountain people who must work so hard, especially my friends from Nepal who have to go through a real difficult time“. You all are my journalistic expedition team, thank you! I mean, this award is a little bit like a first ascent, isn’t it? 😉
There are no mountains in Abu Dhabi, only „mountain buildings“. Here are some impressions:
Date16. December 2015 | 20:09
Tommy Caldwell is on a roll. The 36-year-old American and his compatriot Alex Honnold won this year’s Piolet d’Or, the “Oscar for climbers”, for their success in completing the so called “Fitz Traverse” in Patagonia, a more than five kilometers long climbing route over seven summits and some razor sharp ridges. And Tommy is a prime candidate for next year’s award too. Last January he and Kevin Jorgeson free-climbed for the first time the extremely difficult about 900-meter-high route Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite – a real milestone in big wall climbing. I talked to Tommy about both climbs.
Tommy, you and Alex Honnold were awarded the Piolet d’Or for succeeding the Fitz Traverse in Patagonia. How did you experience this outstanding climb?
Date12. June 2015 | 15:30
It was not surprising any more. All three teams that had been nominated for this year’s Piolets d’Or were finally awarded the Golden Ice Axes. The US climbers Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold got it for their full traverse of the Fitz Roy range in Patagonia, the Russians Aleksander Gukov and Aleksey Lonchinsky for their new route through the South Face of the 6,618-meter-high Thamserku in Nepal and the Slovenes Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic, because they had opened up a route via the North Face of the 6,657-meter-high Hagshu in Northern India.No doubt, three amazing climbs worth to be cherished.
Date12. April 2015 | 1:56
TagsCaldwell, Cesen, Chris Bonington, Courmayeur, Gukov, Honnold, Lindic, Lindsay Griffin, Lonchinsky, Piolets d'Or, Prezelj
„This award for my live achievements means a lot to me“, said Sir Chris Bonington visibly touched. „It honours not only me but also my peers and fellow mountaineers.“ On Saturday evening in Courmayeur, the 80-year-old British mountaineering legend will be awarded the „Piolet d’Or Career 2015“ for all his outstanding performances as climber and expedition leader that has been inspiring the following generations of extreme mountaineers. The previous evening in Chamonix, Boningtons achievements were presented, by himself and by his former British climbing mates Doug Scott (who got the Piolet d’Or Career in 2011) and Paul „Tut“ Braithwaite.
Date11. April 2015 | 1:27
TagsCaldwell, Cesen, Chamonix, Chris Bonington, Doug Scott, Gukov, Honnold, Lindic, Lonchinsky, Piolet d'Or 2015, Prezelj
The Oscars for actors were awarded, but not yet those for climbers. From 9 to 12 April, the mountaineering community will meet in Chamonix and Courmayeur at the foot of Mont Blanc, where this year’s Piolet d’Or is awarded, the Golden Ice Axe. The jury made up of nine top-class mountaineers, one of them the German Ines Papert, selected three outstanding climbs out of a list of the 58 most important ascents of 2014.
Date5. March 2015 | 19:06
No doubt, he fully deserves this honour. When the most remarkable ascents in 2014 will be awarded with the Piolet d’Or, the “Oscar” for mountaineers, in Chamonix and Courmayeur from 9 to 12 April, Sir Chris Bonington will be hounoured with the “Prix Walter Bonatti” for his really outstanding mountaineering career. The prize is awared for the seventh time. The previous prizewinners from 2009 onwards were Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger and John Roskelley. “Chris Boningtons achievements have been significant in both the Alps and Himalaya”, the organizers of Piolet d’Or said. “An outstanding and passionate climber.”
Date27. January 2015 | 11:58
This year’s jury of the Piolet’s d’Or has given the “Oscar of mountaineering” to two teams. The jury lead by the former US top climber George Lowe awarded “two very different ascents to represent the spirit of modern mountaineering”, as the members said. The Golden Ice Axes go to the Canadians Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted for their first ascent of the 7040-meter-high K 6 West in Karakoram on a new route via the Northwest Face and to the Swiss climber Ueli Steck for his solo ascent via the South Face of the eight-thousander Annapurna in Nepal. The awards were given to the climbers during a gala in Courmayeur in Italy at the foot of Mont Blanc on Saturday evening.
Date30. March 2014 | 17:53