The “King of the Eight-Thousanders”

K2 remains the only eight-thousander still unclimbed in winter. Krzysztof Wielicki declared the Polish winter expedition on the second highest mountain on earth over. “The priority of the expedition is the safety of the participants,” wrote the expedition leader on Facebook. Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab found during their exploration climb that all ropes up to Camp 1 on the Abruzzi route were blocked. It had to be assumed that the Camps 1, 2 and 3 were destroyed, said Wielicki. In the last week, there had been 80 centimeters of fresh snow. This had increased the avalanche danger, especially in the upper part of the mountain. In addition, only around 11 March a good weather window was expected, but probably it was too short for a summit push, explained Wielicki.

A lot of disquiet

Adam Bielecki after being hit by a stone

The expedition, which brought together the best Polish high altitude climbers, was not running smoothly. First, a part of the team was involved in the rescue operation for Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz on Nanga Parbat. Then, within a few days, two climbers were injured by falling rocks on the Basque route. Bielecki broke his nose but was able to continue the expedition. Rafal Fronia broke his forearm and had to leave early. The team switched to the Abruzzi route. The solo ascent of Denis Urubko, who had not consulted his plan with expedition leader Wielicki, caused further disquiet. The 44-year-old reached an altitude of 7,600 meters, before storm and deep snow stopped him. After returning to the base camp Urubko left the expedition.

Txikon ends his Everest winter expedition

One and a half weeks in Africa including the ascent of the 5895-meter-high Kilimanjaro lie behind me. High time to look at the two winter expeditions on Mount Everest and K2. Because they provided plenty to talk about, especially the expedition on K2. First, however, to the highest of all mountains: As he had already done in 2017, the Spaniard Alex Txikon abandoned his attempt to scale Mount Everest in winter without bottled oxygen. A summit attempt last week ended at 7850 meters, just below the South Col, because the cold was much more severe and the wind significantly stronger than predicted.

No fast weather improvement in sight

Turning back in the Lhotse flank

“The truth is that these are not easy moments, my greatest hope was to go from Camp 4 to the top, but the mountain is the one that decides,” said Alex. “And it was impossible to advance under those conditions. After all, the most important thing for the entire team is to return safely to continue dreaming and enjoying the mountain.” Since the permit for Everest expired at the end of February and there was no weather improvement in sight until mid-March, the expedition team decided to go home.

Urubko turns around at 7600 meters

Denis Urubko on K2

Also for Denis Urubko his winter expedition is over – but for completely different reasons. The native Russian, who has also a Polish passport since 2015, today left in quarrel the Polish expedition on K 2, the second highest mountain in the world. At the end of last week, he set off for a solo summit attempt, without consultation with expedition leader Krzysztof Wielicki. Previously he had tried to convince his powerful team-mate Adam Bielecki to join him. But the Pole, with whom Urubko had rescued the Frenchwoman Elisabeth on Nanga Parbat at the end of January, refused. According to his own words, Denis reached an altitude of about 7,600 meters, just below the so-called “Shoulder”. Due to storm, the 44-year-old finally returned.

Dispute with Wielicki

Urubko (l.) and Wielicki (r.)

Urubko had already stated in an interview with alpinismonline.com before the expedition that a winter expedition was only successful if the summit had been reached before the end of February. Obviously he was dissatisfied with the slow progress of the expedition and tried it on his own. “It was my chance to do something, not just to sit in the base,” said Urubko. “I think I do not need to apologize. The others are not angels, either.” After returning to Base Camp, the team leader announced that Urubko would leave the expedition. “This decision was accepted by the participants of the expedition, who did not see any further possibility of cooperation with Denis after his independent attempt to get the top,” it said. Expedition leader Wielicki even forbade Urubko from using the expedition’s internet connection, “because Denis sent critical information about our expedition and its participants to the media and I did not see a reason for him to continue this.” Previously, Wielicki had considered Urubko’s attempt to be “selfish”: “Denis thinks it’s all about just him, but it’s not. He has put all of us in danger. If something goes wrong, of course we must try to rescue him.”

Urubko scaled all 14 eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen. Twice he succeeded first winter ascents of eight-thousander, both by the way in February: In 2009 with the Italian Simone Moro on Makalu in Nepal and in 2014 with Moro and the American Cory Richards on Gasherbrum II in Pakistan. The Polish winter expedition on K2 continues – without Urubko, probably the strongest climber in the team.

Ascent via the Abruzzi route on K 2

“The weather is not the best,” Krzysztof Wielicki, leader of the Polish K2 winter expedition, writes on Facebook. “Full of clouds and wind.” Denis Urubko ascended via the Abruzzi Spur to an altitude of 6,500 meters to check the condition of the route. Some old ropes are to be replaced, says Wielicki. The Polish climbers  had abandoned “for reasons of safety” their original plan to climb the Basque route (also known as the Cesen route). Previously Adam Bielecki and Rafal Fronia had been injured by rockfall. While Bielecki is able to continue, Fronia had to cancel the expedition because of a broken forearm.

Txikon and Co. waiting in EBC

Alex Txikon in the Lhotse flank at the end of January

On Mount Everest, the Spaniard Alex Txikon, the Pakistani Muhammad Ali “Sadpara””and their Sherpa team are waiting for an opportunity for a summit attempt. “it seems that the weather does not work in our favor,” writes Alex. The climbers are well acclimatized. At the end of January, Txikon and Ali had scaled the 7,161-meter-high Pumori. A few days later, Alex and Co. had climbed on Everest up to an altitude of 7,850 meters, then the weather had turned.

First winter ascent of Gora Pobeda reported

Gora Pobeda in eastern Siberia

Meanwhile, Italian Simone Moro and his South Tyrolean team partner Tamara Lunger announced the first winter ascent of the 3,003-meter-high Gora Pobeda (also called Pik Pobeda) in the icy eastern part of Siberia. “”It snowed all day long, but there was good visibility,” the two climbers informed on Facebook.” It was extremely cold! How cold we do not know yet, we’ll check and tell you.” Gora Pobeda is located only about 140 kilometers south of the Arctic Circle. Local reindeer herdsmen had accompanied Moro and Lunger from the last inhabited settlement to the base camp.

Rafal Fronia

For the Polish climber Rafal Fronia, the winter expedition on K2 is over. “Today, at 2pm local time, while approaching to Camp 1 (5,900m), a smoldering falling stone hit Rafał Fronia in the forearm causing a fracture,” expedition leader Krzysztof Wielicki informed from the base camp on Facebook. “After descending to the base and medical supply, he expects to be evacuated by a helicopter to the hospital in Skardu.” Fronia is to return home. In spring 2017, the Polish climber had scaled the eight-thousander Lhotse in Nepal without bottled oxygen.

Cesen route (E), Abruzzi route (F)

Only on Wednesday, Adam Bielecki was hit by a stone after his return from the rescue operation on Nanga Parbat, also just below Camp 1. He had suffered a broken nose and had to be sewn with several stitches. Bielecki wants to rest for a few days and then ascend again.

Update 10 February: After the two injuries by rockfall, the Polish K2 winter expedition abandons the Cesen route “for reasons of safety” – and announces that they are looking for another ascent route. I guess they will choose the normal route via the Abruzzi Spur.

It worked out well in the end

“Eh, that was close,” Adam Bielecki writes on Facebook from K2 Base Camp. “Several dozens of meters below camp 1 [at 5,800 m]  I was hit by a big stone. The result is a broken nose and six stitches, which were professionally put by Piotr Tomala and Marek Chmielarski directed by phone instructions from Robert Szymczak. In a few days I should be back in a perfect condition.” Previously, Krzysztof Wielicki, the leader of the Polish winter expedition on the second highest mountain on earth, had reported that Bielecki had been injured on the forehead and nose, although he had worn a helmet. Wielecki emphasized that the 34-year-old had not lost consciousness and was still able to descend to the base camp: “We hope that he will soon be back to full strength.”

Urubko up to 6,550 m

The Polish team fights tough for every meter on the Cesen route in adverse conditions. Denis Urubko has climbed up furthest so far. He reached an altitude of about 6,550 meters above Camp 2 a few days ago. K2 is the last remaining of the 14 eight-thousanders that has never been scaled in winter. The Polish “Ice Warriors” want to change that.

Returned from Nanga Parbat rescue

Denis Urubko (l.) with Elisabeth Revol (r.) after the rescue of the Frenchwoman

Urubko and Bielecki returned from their rescue on Nanga Parbat on 2 February. As reported, they had managed to bring Elisabeth Revol safely from the mountain. The Frenchwoman and the Pole Tomek Mackiewicz had fallen into trouble after their summit success. Tomek – suffering from snowblindness and severe high altitude sickness – had stayed behind at 7,200 meters, unable to descend further. The search for him had been stopped because of the bad weather and the minimal chance of finding him alive.

Txikon and Co. are waiting for another chance

Meanwhile, in the base camp at the foot of Mount Everest, the Spaniard Alex Txikon, the Pakistani Muhammad Ali “Sadpara” and their Nepalese team are waiting for their next chance. At the end of January, they had reached an altitude of 7,850 meters before being forced back by a sudden change in the weather. Txikon and Ali want to scale the highest mountain in the world without bottled oxygen this winter.