Dani Arnold

The Matterhorn was his first four-thousander. Dani Arnold was 18 years old when he first scaled the prestige mountain of his home country from the Höernli Hut on the normal route in 2002. Today the 31-year-old is one of the best climbers in Switzerland. Since then, he has been „maybe eight times on top“ of the Matterhorn, Dani writes to me from Pakistan, where he is currently trying to climb first through the North Face of the seven-thousander Latok I, along with the German Huber brothers and the Austrian Mario Walder. In recent years, Arnold made headlines in particular with his speed records. Since 2011, he is holding the record on the Eiger North Face. He climbed the wall on the route of the first ascent in two hours and 28 minutes. Thus Dani was 20 minutes faster than the previous record holder Ueli Steck. This April, he also broke Steck’s speed record on the Matterhorn North Face. It took Arnold an hour and 46 minutes, spending ten minutes less on the wall than Ueli did in 2009. The Matterhorn, 150 years after the first ascent, from the perspective of a professional climber:

Dani, all over the world the Matterhorn is a symbol for Switzerland. How do you see this mountain? Or in other words, what does it mean to you?

In terms of shape, it is one of the most beautiful mountains. Climbing it, is okay, but not very special. The rock often is not solid.

150 years ago, the Matterhorn was first climbed by the roped party of the Briton Edward Whymper. How do you value their performance, taking into account the equipment from then and considering that the group climbed into the unknown?

Of course it was an impressive performance. Respect!

The first ascent ended tragically: Four climbers fell to death. Did this disaster establish the myth of the Matterhorn?

Dani on the summit of the Matterhorn after his speed record

I think so. Mostly tragedies and accidents are the reason that mountains get mythical. Actually, it’s in some way weird, that something has to happen before the public takes notice.

The Matterhorn is a commercial mountain. About 3,000 summit aspirants per year try to climb it. Does the Matterhorn share the fate of other prestige mountains like Mont Blanc or Mount Everest, attracting people who actually do not belong there due to their lack of climbing skills?

It already belongs to this category of famous mountains that attract many people simply because of its name. And thus there are many climbers who actually have no business to be there.

Not a year passes without fatalities on the Matterhorn. Does it make sense to limit the number of ascents?

No, the important thing is that mountaineering has to remain free. That means, anyone can climb where he wants. This is a huge privilege. But everyone has to bear the consequences himself.

Is climbing the Matterhorn, especially via the North Face, still a classic that should not miss in the career of a professional climber?

Everyone should have climbed the wall. However, that must be qualified. The North Face is a classic tour that many people are able to climb. But for us, (professional climbers) it is rather simple compared to current projects. Otherwise alpinism would not have developed since the first ascent of the Matterhorn North Face.

Last April, you set up a new speed record on the North Face. You climbed the wall on the route of the first ascent by Franz and Toni Schmid (1931) in a time of one hour and 46 minutes, thus being ten minutes faster than Ueli Steck. Have you reached your limit or is it possible to climb the wall even faster?

The Schmid route via the Matterhorn North Face

It is always possible to climb faster. Many things have to match. I have to be fit enough. The conditions must be okay. The psyche has to be right, and I have to be highly motivated. My climbing time was short, but actually it was strenuous too.

In 2010 and 2011, the Italian climber Hervé Barmasse opened two new routes on the Matterhorn South Face. But such first climbs are seldom. Is the Matterhorn largely exhausted? Is there next to nothing to do for climbers?

I do not believe that. The obvious lines have been climbed. But there is still a lot of room. Many think that you can experience extraordinary things only in the Himalayas. But that’s not true.

If you could make the Matterhorn a present for the 150th anniversary of its first ascent, what would it be?

I’ve never really thought about what you can give to a mountain.

P.S.: That was the last part of my little Matterhorn series.

Helmi Lerjen, mountain guide and rescuer

Even the first ascent of the Matterhorn 150 years ago ended in tragedy. Four team members died during the descent from the summit, when a rope ruptured. Since then, more than 500 climbers died on the “Horu”, as the locals call the Matterhorn – more than on any other mountain in Switzerland. Year after year there are between 2,500 and 3,000 summit attempts, also resulting in a lot of work for mountain rescuers. Helmut called “Helmi” Lerjen comes from a true mountain guide family. In the fourth generation, the Lerjens are guiding clients on mountains like the Matterhorn. Helmi, who is living with his wife and daughter in the small village of Täsch, close to Zermatt, has also been working for the Mountain Rescue Zermatt for almost 15 years. The Matterhorn, 150 years after the first ascent, from the perspective of a mountain rescuer:

Dani, all over the world the Matterhorn is a symbol for Switzerland. How do you see this mountain? Or in other words, what does it mean to you?

I have so far climbed the Matterhorn with clients 187 times. As technical director of the mountain guides of Zermatt, I am also responsible for the maintenance of the fixed ropes on the Matterhorn. Even in the 19th century, my great-great-grandfather Josef and my great-grandfather Alois guided guests on the Horu. In 1930, my grandfather Joseph Lerjen tried to first climb the North Face, but the attempt of his team failed. (One year later, the German brothers Franz and Toni Schmid were successful.) Along with his colleague Kaspar Mooser and their client Emile Blanchet, my grandfather climbed with strong determination on the North Face. They were only using wooden ice axes and crampons without front points (!). Unfortunately, they had to retreat because of rock fall and bad conditions on the wall. The rocks were covered with a thin layer of ice. They climbed for several hours. It is not known what height they reached exactly. If one of the three had slipped, it had meant the death of all. With luck, they escaped the North Face unharmed. With these stories of my forefathers I have a very personal relationship with the Matterhorn.

Even the first ascent of the Matterhorn ended with a disaster. Four climbers lost their lives. Do mountain rescuers still discuss this tragedy as an example of what can happen on the Matterhorn?

Every accident on the Matterhorn or other mountains is tragic. For us as very experienced mountain rescuers, it is best if we are able to save the lives of climbers. By contrast, it is always sad to recover dead. In this case you can actually no longer speak of rescue. It’s rather a work that we have to do.

As the technical director of the mountain guides in Zermatt, you are responsible for the fixed ropes on the Matterhorn. How secure is the normal route?

It is very difficult to find the right path on the Hörnli Ridge. The lower part is like a labyrinth. As soon as you stray from the correct route, you immediately find yourself in loose rock, which can then be really dangerous.

Every year about 80 rescue flights are made on the Matterhorn. More than 500 climbers have already died on the mountain. This makes the Matterhorn in absolute terms the most dangerous Swiss mountain. What are the most frequent causes of accidents?

Rescue flight of Air Zermatt

The Matterhorn itself is not dangerous. It is the climber who makes it dangerous, for example by losing his way in the dark, then getting into loose rock and endangering other climbers by kicking off stones. As he gets lost, he is far too long on the mountain and becomes tired quickly. Then his concentration is rapidly decreasing.

Could many accidents be avoided and if yes how?

The Hörnli Ridge is one of the most difficult normal routes on four-thousanders in the Alps. Therefore, it is advisable to hire a mountain guide.

The Matterhorn is not a hiking mountain. Are many summit aspirants simply too careless?

I don’t believe that. It’s known that the Hörnli Ridge is one of the most challenging normal routes.

Too many climbers on a route almost inevitably lead to higher risk. Stones can be kicked off, there can be traffic jams on the route. Does a limitation of Matterhorn ascents make sense?

The construction of the new Hörnli Hut (the starting point on the summit day) has reduced the number of beds from 170 to 130. The ban of camping has led to 30 people less daily. So a total of about 70 people less will be on the way on Matterhorn per day. This ensures more safety.

If you could make the Matterhorn a present for the 150th anniversary of its first ascent, what would it be?

On 14 July 2015, exactly 150 years after the first ascent of the Matterhorn, no one will climb the mountain in honor of the first ascenders. I hope with all my heart that all mountaineers stick to it and that Horu has peace and quiet on this jubilee day.

Ascent on the Matterhorn (Photo: © Christoph Frutiger)

Probably Richard Lehner would find the summit even blindfolded. The veteran mountain guide from Zermatt has reached the highest point of the Matterhorn at 4,478 meters 650 times. This is not the record but nevertheless he would deserve the title “Mr. Matterhorn”. The 76-year-old has passed on his passion for the mountains to his children. Two of his sons are mountain guides too, one is a ski instructor. Richard Lehner is one of 87 listed active mountain guides of the Alpin Center Zermatt, the local Mountain Guides Association. The Matterhorn, 150 years after the first ascent, from the perspective of a mountain guide:

Richard, all over the world the Matterhorn is a symbol for Switzerland. How do you see this mountain? Or in other words, what does it mean to you?

As a mountain guide, I have been working mainly on the Matterhorn. I have scaled the mountain 650 times. I was on top for the last time five years ago. For me, it has always been a beautiful mountain.

650 climbs – how often did you find yourself in critical situations?

Not often, and it was nothing serious.

What are the main challenges for a mountaineer who wants to climb the Matterhorn?

He must be reasonably trained and a good runner. Technical climbing skills are not that important. The main thing is to be in good shape.

Do many climbers underestimate the mountain?

Yes, many. Some of those who climb the mountain need three to four days. They pitch their tent and set off. And when the weather is changing, they cry for help. Then the rescue helicopter has to start and bring them down.

What are the problems of these climbers?

Above all, they have difficulties in finding the right track.

Every year 2500 to 3000 climbers try to scale Matterhorn. Can the mountain take so many people?

No problem.

Are there no traffic jams on the mountain?

At the most in the morning when all climbers set off. After that, it’s not that bad.

Who does control the traffic on the mountain? The mountain guides?

No need. The mountain guides are the first who start in the morning. If one is faster, he climbs in front or passes. The climbers without mountain guides have hardly a chance to keep up, because they have to do too much work on the rope.

Nevertheless, hardly a year goes by without fatal accident on the Matterhorn. Have we to swallow this bitter pill?

Summit of the Matterhorn

Previously, the equipment was much worse than today. In the past we had ten accidents per year, today we have maybe one. Now there are fixed ropes at the places where the most accidents have happened. You can hold tight to the ropes while you’re descending.

But accidents still happen. Why first and foremost?

Mainly because climbers stray from the track.

A Matterhorn ascent with a mountain guide currently costs about 1,600 Swiss francs, or about 1,500 euros. That’s a lot of money. Does the client expect in return a summit guaranty?

You cannot give any guaranty. There are people who have problems to reach the Hörnli Hut, and then say: This mountain is much too high, I won’t climb on. And sometimes you have to turn around because of changing weather.

You have worked as a mountain guide on the Matterhorn for several decades. Has the type of summit aspirant changed?

Yes, a bit. People simply do not want to train. They mean when they walk three times back and forth through Zermatt, they are ready for the Matterhorn and can hire a mountain guide. But it doesn’t work without training. The summit success cannot be forced. In the old days, climbers used to make ten other mountain trips before heading to the Matterhorn. Today, people want to make only this mountain. Hardly one of them will return again later. They climb the Matterhorn – and ready.

If you could make the Matterhorn a present for the 150th anniversary of its first ascent, what would it be?

For us as mountain guides, it would be better if the Matterhorn aspirants would be a little better prepared. Someday I had a client; the ascent with him took me four and a half hours, but the descent eight hours. His trousers were torn, and he was bleeding. There must have been something wrong. But the Matterhorn is just the distinctive mountain, and we live on it. Every guest who is visiting Zermatt wants to have a room with a view of the Matterhorn.

The normal route via the Hörnli Ridge (© Photopress/Mammut/Robert Boesch)

The clock is running. In a week from now, the countdown clock on the station square in Zermatt will jump to zero. On 14 July, exactly 150 years ago, the Matterhorn was first climbed. No other mountain in Switzerland embodies the country more than this shapely four-thousander. And that’s not just because of a famous chocolate brand that is sold around the world, the bars of which modeled like the Matterhorn. Every year, 2,500 to 3,000 climbers try to reach the 4,478-meter-high summit – most of them via the Hörnli Ridge, the normal route that was also taken by the first ascenders headed by the Englishman Edward Whymper. The Hörnli Hut at 3,260 meters, starting point of most aspirants, has been rebuilt and modernized at great expense. In time for the Matterhorn anniversary it was finished. On the day itself, the mountain should be left in peace. Therefore the Matterhorn will be closed for ascents on 14 July – in order to remember all the people who died on the mountain.

In the ninth attempt

Edward Whymper (in 1910)

More than 500 climbers have so far lost their lives on the Matterhorn – among them four of the seven first ascenders. It was the most famous mountain tragedy of the 19th century. The first ascent of the Matterhorn was the number one in the ranking of the mountain projects in the 1860s, comparable with the first ascent of Mount Everest in the 20th century. Each climber knew: The one, who was able to climb the prestige mountain first, would not only write Alpine history, but would become famous worldwide. The project evolved into a race between the Briton Edward Whymper and the Italian Jean-Antoine Carrel. First both failed eight times on the Matterhorn, in some of the attempts together.

Faster approach

Triumph …

In that week of July 1865, Carrel ascended from Italy via the Lion Ridge. By then Whymper had also taken this route. But when he heard that Carrel had already set off for his potentially decisive summit attempt, he engaged with the proposal of mountain guide Peter Taugwalder senior from Zermatt who thought that it was possible to climb via the Hörnli Ridge. Whymper, Taugwalder and his son Peter junior, the French mountain guide Michel Croz and the Britons Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson and Robert Hadow were the members of the rope team. Taugwalders route via the Hörnli Ridge proved faster. At 1.40 p.m., Whymper reached the summit. When Carrel saw the roped party at the highest point, himself being about 400 meters lower, he was very disappointed and turned back.

One victim still missing

… and tragedy

On the descent of the successful rope team, the tragedy happened: Hadow slipped and pulled Douglas, Hudson and Croz with him. Quick reacting, Taugwalder senior wrapped the rope around a rock – in vain. “The rope snapped, as if it was only a piece of string, and the four young men were no longer visible. It happened so quickly as a lightning”, Taugwalder junior wrote later. The four unfortunate climbers fell down the North Face to death. Three bodies were recovered in the following days. Lord Francis has remained missing until today – and with him one end of the snapped rope. The other can be seen today in the Matterhorn Museum in Zermatt. This autumn, there will be another search for Douglas at the foot of the Matterhorn North Face.

Low blow

The three survivors – Whymper and the two Taugwalders – faced fierce criticism. Whymper later accused Taugwalder senior to have used deliberately the thinner rope between him and the others. The mountain guide career of Taugwalder ebbed away because he could not find foreign clients any more. “Whymper had no respect for the mountain guides”, the living climbing legend Reinhold Messner told the Swiss newspaper NZZ. “He didn’t even thank Taugwalder for saving his life by wrapping the rope around the rock at the moment of the fall.”

Carrel’s death on the Matterhorn

On 17 July, just three days after Whymper’s summit success, Jean-Antoine Carrel succeeded in making the second ascent of the Matterhorn via the Lion Ridge. The race for the first ascent of the mountain did not divide Whymper and Carrel. Later they went together on expedition to South America. In 1880, they made, inter alia, the first ascent of the 6267-meter-high Chimborazo in Ecuador. In 1890, Carrel’s life ended – at the Matterhorn. After a sudden fall in temperature, he succeeded in bringing his companions through the deep snow to safety, but then he died of exhaustion.

P.S. On the occasion of the Matterhorn anniversary, you can read here on my blog in the next few days three interviews. In each of them only the first and last question are identical. The Matterhorn from three perspectives: that of a mountain guide, a mountain rescuer and a professional climber. I hope I’ve made you curious.