Wrong impressions

The earthquake of 25 April and the numerous aftershocks have struck Nepal, which was already before the quake one of the poorest countries in the world, at the very heart. According to official figures, almost 9,000 people were killed, more than 22,000 were injured, more than 500,000 homes were destroyed, many of the roads and paths are still impassable. First the devastating earthquake drew the international attention to Nepal. But then happened what often happens after disasters: the effects of the earthquake disappears from the main headlines, therefore the public interest slows down, the wave of helpfulness and solidarity dies down. And impressions strengthen that often have little to do or even are at variance with reality.

Not just up to date

Gorak Shep near Everest Base Camp

Many people seem to think that the whole of Nepal is down and will not stand up in the foreseeable future – and that we for this reason should give the country a wide berth. Travel warnings for Nepal issued by many Western governments for Nepal, which remained unchanged for an unreasonable period, played their part. By now, most warnings were repealed or reduced – but that does not necessarily mean that they are really up to date. So the German Foreign Office still advises against “not necessary traveling to the regions that were hardest hit by the earthquake” and mentions among others the “Solokhumbu (incl. Everest Base Camp and trekking routes in the Everest region)” and the Annapurna region. Notwithstanding that the independent earthquake experts from the US Agency Miyamoto International recently gave the green light for both areas.

Ralf Dujmovits

I asked Ralf Dujmovits, the only German mountain climber who scaled all 14 eight-thousanders, about his opinion. The Nepalese government has appointed the 53-year-old, along with other top climbers, a “Tourism Goodwill Ambassador of Nepal”:

Ralf, if anyone asks you whether he should travel to Nepal this fall or not, do you advise him to go there?

Yes, absolutely! But not without ristriction. Based on the recent engineering reports for the trekking regions, I would express my recommendation a bit more differentiated. For example, trekking in the Khumbu or in Mustang is well feasible, trips in the Rolwaling area or on the Manaslu Curcuit are only possible to a limited extend. Trekking in Langtang should be postponed.

Most Western governments, including the German, have repealed or reduced their travel warnings for Nepal but still advise against traveling to some popular trekking areas. What do you think about this?

These still very undifferentiated or wrong descriptions of the situation should be adapted to the real current conditions as soon as possible. There are now reports of independent experts, who assess the areas, against which the Foreign Office warns, quite positive. The current travel warnings do damage to the already very troubled country without cause.

For this fall, the Nepalese government expects a 50 percent drop in tourism. What does this mean for the country?

Tourism is the foreign exchange earner and employer number one in Nepal. In addition to the lack of money to rebuild the country, the expected development in fall will lead to a massive slump of other important sources of income. I hope that as many people as possible will spend their holidays in Nepal.

P.S. Even at the risk that I might bug you: Please support our campaign “School up” to rebuild the school in Thulosirubari that was destroyed by the earthquake! You find the details on the right side of the blog.

Landslide north of the village of Phakding

A cautious all-clear for the Everest Base Camp trail. “None of the major suspension bridges appear to be affected by new geotechnical hazards as a result of the earthquake”, says the report of a group of mountain guides and engineers of the US based agency Miyamoto International which is specialized on earthquake damage. “Much of the trail and most of the rock retaining walls (both above and below) the trail are undamaged. We have observed very little foundation damage to buildings.” At the end of June the team had assessed the condition of the trail from the village of Lukla to Everest Base Camp after the devastating earthquake of 25 April and the aftermaths. 83 percent of the observed lodges and houses were given a green tag, meaning that they were undamaged or hardly affected. And the others? “It was found that most of the buildings that were damaged can feasibly be repaired. Building owners have started reconstructing damaged buildings”, says the report.

Relocation due to hazards

Hazard of Rockfall in the village of Shomore

Heavy damage was particularly found in the lower parts of the Khumbu valley, where the small villages of Toktok and Bengkar are faced with a great hazard of debris flows and rockfall. The experts recommend relocating parts of the villages and the trekking route to the opposite side of the river Dudh Kosi. The team advises as well not to stay overnight further up the valley in the village of Shomore that was hit by rockfall. In some places of the trail signage is necessary to inform trekkers about hazards like rockfall or landslide, says the report. For the entire trail to Everest Base Camp the experts recommend a more detailed study after the monsoon period.

Local people hope for tourists coming back

Gorak Shep near Everest Base Camp

“The local teahouse owners are rapidly reconstructing the lodges and most of the works have been completed”, Dawa Gyaljen Sherpa writes to me. The Nepalese mountain guide was a member of the assessment team. “The local people are hoping that tourism will be back in Khumbu.” The Nepalese government said it would move quickly to make the trails safe. “It is our top priority to repair the trails. We’ll relocate them wherever they cannot be repaired”, said Tulsi Prasad Gautam, an official of the Tourism Ministry. Before the earthquake, usually about 40,000 Western trekkers per year had been visiting the region around Mount Everest. The fall trekking season will start in September.

More aid is needed

Dawa Gyaljen Sherpa points out to me that most of the people in the Khumbu region who were hardly affected by the earthquake live off the main trekking route and are not engaged in mountain tourism. “They still need the aid of relief organizations”, says Dawa. It’s not over. Don’t forget Nepal!

P.S.: I want to remind you of our donation campaign “School up!”. We want to rebuild the “Gerlinde and Ralf School” in Thulosirubari in Sindhupalchowk District that was particularly hardly hit by the earthquake. The school was heavily damaged and has to be demolished before it can be rebuilded. You find the bank details for your donations on the right side of my blog. Thank you for your support!