Pik Lenin

“There are no easy mountains and certainly no easy seven-thousanders.” I remember very clearly these words of my Austrian expedition leader Herbert Wolf in 2011, on the 7,246-meter-high Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) in Nepal. I had to turn around 150 meters below the summit because the weather conditions were deteriorating and I was too late. What Herbert meant, was the fact that the conditions can change even an apparently easy mountain into a difficult and dangerous one.
Commercial expedition operators often call Peak Lenin in Kyrgyzstan an “easy seven-thousander” or an “entry seven-thousander”. On 7 August, a Russian mountain guide died on the 7,134-meter-high mountain in the Pamirs.  It was a combination of difficult conditions and negligence that led to his death. Three other members of the expedition, which had been organized by a Kyrgyz agency, were lucky enough to survive the accident. I have first-hand information.

Without ice axe and helmet

Hundreds of climbers have been trying to climb Peak Lenin this season. Reports from various expeditions say that the weather conditions in recent weeks have been unusually bad: Heavy snowfall, wind and cold made the success rate on the mountain decrease from about 20 percent to two percent in July. “In the morning of 7 August, we were the first group to climb via the normal route from Camp 1 at 4,400 meters across the snow-covered and crevassed glacier to Camp 2 at 5,300 meters“, a member of the rope team of four told me. He survived the incident and wants to remain anonymous. According to his words, the Russian mountain guide was an experienced man who had already summited eight-thousanders. But apparently, he took the ascent across the glacier lightly. “He had neither a helmet nor an ice axe. He took a 40-meter rope, but insisted on paying out only 20 meters.” Later that proved fatal.

No chance to react

On the glacier

First they were able to jump across some narrow but deep crevasses. But then, at about 5,000 meters, the team reached a big crevasse, into which the wind had blown a lot of snow. “Due to the short rope distance between us, two climbers were simultaneously crossing the snow bridge when it broke”, said the climber. “It was happening so fast. We others were not able to react because of the short rope connection and were also pulled down into the 20- meter-deep crevasse.”
The Russian mountain guide hit the ground with his head forward and died on the spot. Another team member was hit by the guide’s crampons and suffered serious cut injuries. The fall of the other two climbers ended on the side of the crevasse, one injured his knee, the other miraculously remained intact.
Other rope teams realized that the group had suddenly disappeared in the crevasse. About two hours later, all were recovered from the crevasse and flown out by helicopter.

“Gross negligence”

“If we had used the full length of the rope – we repeatedly dunned the mountain guide for doing so –, only one team member would have stood on the snow bridge and in case it broke, we would had a chance to stop the fall”, said the expedition member, adding that the equipment with which the Russian mountain guide set off was insufficient for the prevailing conditions at Peak Lenin. This also applied to the food that had been deposited in the high camps. “That was gross negligence”, said the climber. “You should really look carefully under whose care you put yourself on such an expedition.”

Tragedies on Pik Lenin

Memorial stone for the victims of the ice avalanche in 1990

Peak Lenin was first climbed by a Soviet-German expedition in 1928. The mountain was repeatedly the arena for tragedies. In 1974, eight Russian female climbers froze to death in a storm. In 1990, the mountaineering accident with the most fatalities ever occurred on Peak Lenin: An earthquake triggered an ice avalanche that buried a high camp completely. 43 climbers died, only two survived. So much for “easy seven-thousander”.

Helmi Lerjen, mountain guide and rescuer

Even the first ascent of the Matterhorn 150 years ago ended in tragedy. Four team members died during the descent from the summit, when a rope ruptured. Since then, more than 500 climbers died on the “Horu”, as the locals call the Matterhorn – more than on any other mountain in Switzerland. Year after year there are between 2,500 and 3,000 summit attempts, also resulting in a lot of work for mountain rescuers. Helmut called “Helmi” Lerjen comes from a true mountain guide family. In the fourth generation, the Lerjens are guiding clients on mountains like the Matterhorn. Helmi, who is living with his wife and daughter in the small village of Täsch, close to Zermatt, has also been working for the Mountain Rescue Zermatt for almost 15 years. The Matterhorn, 150 years after the first ascent, from the perspective of a mountain rescuer:

Dani, all over the world the Matterhorn is a symbol for Switzerland. How do you see this mountain? Or in other words, what does it mean to you?

I have so far climbed the Matterhorn with clients 187 times. As technical director of the mountain guides of Zermatt, I am also responsible for the maintenance of the fixed ropes on the Matterhorn. Even in the 19th century, my great-great-grandfather Josef and my great-grandfather Alois guided guests on the Horu. In 1930, my grandfather Joseph Lerjen tried to first climb the North Face, but the attempt of his team failed. (One year later, the German brothers Franz and Toni Schmid were successful.) Along with his colleague Kaspar Mooser and their client Emile Blanchet, my grandfather climbed with strong determination on the North Face. They were only using wooden ice axes and crampons without front points (!). Unfortunately, they had to retreat because of rock fall and bad conditions on the wall. The rocks were covered with a thin layer of ice. They climbed for several hours. It is not known what height they reached exactly. If one of the three had slipped, it had meant the death of all. With luck, they escaped the North Face unharmed. With these stories of my forefathers I have a very personal relationship with the Matterhorn.

Even the first ascent of the Matterhorn ended with a disaster. Four climbers lost their lives. Do mountain rescuers still discuss this tragedy as an example of what can happen on the Matterhorn?

Every accident on the Matterhorn or other mountains is tragic. For us as very experienced mountain rescuers, it is best if we are able to save the lives of climbers. By contrast, it is always sad to recover dead. In this case you can actually no longer speak of rescue. It’s rather a work that we have to do.

As the technical director of the mountain guides in Zermatt, you are responsible for the fixed ropes on the Matterhorn. How secure is the normal route?

It is very difficult to find the right path on the Hörnli Ridge. The lower part is like a labyrinth. As soon as you stray from the correct route, you immediately find yourself in loose rock, which can then be really dangerous.

Every year about 80 rescue flights are made on the Matterhorn. More than 500 climbers have already died on the mountain. This makes the Matterhorn in absolute terms the most dangerous Swiss mountain. What are the most frequent causes of accidents?

Rescue flight of Air Zermatt

The Matterhorn itself is not dangerous. It is the climber who makes it dangerous, for example by losing his way in the dark, then getting into loose rock and endangering other climbers by kicking off stones. As he gets lost, he is far too long on the mountain and becomes tired quickly. Then his concentration is rapidly decreasing.

Could many accidents be avoided and if yes how?

The Hörnli Ridge is one of the most difficult normal routes on four-thousanders in the Alps. Therefore, it is advisable to hire a mountain guide.

The Matterhorn is not a hiking mountain. Are many summit aspirants simply too careless?

I don’t believe that. It’s known that the Hörnli Ridge is one of the most challenging normal routes.

Too many climbers on a route almost inevitably lead to higher risk. Stones can be kicked off, there can be traffic jams on the route. Does a limitation of Matterhorn ascents make sense?

The construction of the new Hörnli Hut (the starting point on the summit day) has reduced the number of beds from 170 to 130. The ban of camping has led to 30 people less daily. So a total of about 70 people less will be on the way on Matterhorn per day. This ensures more safety.

If you could make the Matterhorn a present for the 150th anniversary of its first ascent, what would it be?

On 14 July 2015, exactly 150 years after the first ascent of the Matterhorn, no one will climb the mountain in honor of the first ascenders. I hope with all my heart that all mountaineers stick to it and that Horu has peace and quiet on this jubilee day.

Ascent on the Matterhorn (Photo: © Christoph Frutiger)

Probably Richard Lehner would find the summit even blindfolded. The veteran mountain guide from Zermatt has reached the highest point of the Matterhorn at 4,478 meters 650 times. This is not the record but nevertheless he would deserve the title “Mr. Matterhorn”. The 76-year-old has passed on his passion for the mountains to his children. Two of his sons are mountain guides too, one is a ski instructor. Richard Lehner is one of 87 listed active mountain guides of the Alpin Center Zermatt, the local Mountain Guides Association. The Matterhorn, 150 years after the first ascent, from the perspective of a mountain guide:

Richard, all over the world the Matterhorn is a symbol for Switzerland. How do you see this mountain? Or in other words, what does it mean to you?

As a mountain guide, I have been working mainly on the Matterhorn. I have scaled the mountain 650 times. I was on top for the last time five years ago. For me, it has always been a beautiful mountain.

650 climbs – how often did you find yourself in critical situations?

Not often, and it was nothing serious.

What are the main challenges for a mountaineer who wants to climb the Matterhorn?

He must be reasonably trained and a good runner. Technical climbing skills are not that important. The main thing is to be in good shape.

Do many climbers underestimate the mountain?

Yes, many. Some of those who climb the mountain need three to four days. They pitch their tent and set off. And when the weather is changing, they cry for help. Then the rescue helicopter has to start and bring them down.

What are the problems of these climbers?

Above all, they have difficulties in finding the right track.

Every year 2500 to 3000 climbers try to scale Matterhorn. Can the mountain take so many people?

No problem.

Are there no traffic jams on the mountain?

At the most in the morning when all climbers set off. After that, it’s not that bad.

Who does control the traffic on the mountain? The mountain guides?

No need. The mountain guides are the first who start in the morning. If one is faster, he climbs in front or passes. The climbers without mountain guides have hardly a chance to keep up, because they have to do too much work on the rope.

Nevertheless, hardly a year goes by without fatal accident on the Matterhorn. Have we to swallow this bitter pill?

Summit of the Matterhorn

Previously, the equipment was much worse than today. In the past we had ten accidents per year, today we have maybe one. Now there are fixed ropes at the places where the most accidents have happened. You can hold tight to the ropes while you’re descending.

But accidents still happen. Why first and foremost?

Mainly because climbers stray from the track.

A Matterhorn ascent with a mountain guide currently costs about 1,600 Swiss francs, or about 1,500 euros. That’s a lot of money. Does the client expect in return a summit guaranty?

You cannot give any guaranty. There are people who have problems to reach the Hörnli Hut, and then say: This mountain is much too high, I won’t climb on. And sometimes you have to turn around because of changing weather.

You have worked as a mountain guide on the Matterhorn for several decades. Has the type of summit aspirant changed?

Yes, a bit. People simply do not want to train. They mean when they walk three times back and forth through Zermatt, they are ready for the Matterhorn and can hire a mountain guide. But it doesn’t work without training. The summit success cannot be forced. In the old days, climbers used to make ten other mountain trips before heading to the Matterhorn. Today, people want to make only this mountain. Hardly one of them will return again later. They climb the Matterhorn – and ready.

If you could make the Matterhorn a present for the 150th anniversary of its first ascent, what would it be?

For us as mountain guides, it would be better if the Matterhorn aspirants would be a little better prepared. Someday I had a client; the ascent with him took me four and a half hours, but the descent eight hours. His trousers were torn, and he was bleeding. There must have been something wrong. But the Matterhorn is just the distinctive mountain, and we live on it. Every guest who is visiting Zermatt wants to have a room with a view of the Matterhorn.