Tibetan north side of Mount Everest

The expedition operators in Nepal might have been so shocked that they dropped their pencils. In the “New Regulations for Foreign Expeditions 2019” in Tibet (available to me) it says under point 6: “In order to ensure the healthy and orderly development of mountaineering and minimize the occurrence of mountaineering accidents, mountaineering teams which were organized in Nepal temporarily will not be accepted.” As I have learned from a reliable source, a delegation from Nepal immediately traveled to China to have this regulation removed or at least weakened. Apparently the delegates of the Nepali operators were at least partially successful. Some agencies, however, are supposedly to receive no more approval. The Chinese and Tibetan Mountaineering Associations announced to cooperate in future only “with expedition companies with good social reputation, strong ability of team formation, logistic support, reliable service quality, excellent professional quality, and (who are) law-abiding”.

One client, one Sherpa

Garbage cans in Everest Base Camp

From spring 2019 onwards, every client commercial expeditions on one of the Tibetan eight-thousanders will have to be accompanied “by a Nepalese mountain guide”. There are also new regulations regarding environmental protection and mountain rescue. For example, each summit aspirant on Everest will have to pay a “rubbish collection fee” of 1,500 US dollars, on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma 1,000 dollars each. Nepalese mountain guides will be exempted from this fee, as well as the base camp staff. In addition, all members bar none will be required after the expedition to hand in eight kilograms of garbage per person from the mountain to the responsible Chinese liaison officers in the base camp.

Rescue team in ABC

In future, a team provided by the Tibetan authorities and the local operator “Tibet Yarlha Shampo Expedition” will be responsible for mountain rescue on Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. During the time of summit attempts, four to six rescuers are to stay permanently in the Advanced Base Camps. For each expedition, the Chinese-Tibetan authorities will collect a deposit of 5,000 US dollars, which will only be refunded if there have been no accidents within the group and if all environmental protection requirements have been met.

Rescue helicopter at Everest Base Camp

The air is getting thinner for those in Nepal who feather their beds with fake rescue flights. According to the Kathmandu-based newspaper “The Himalayan Times”, international insurance companies have set an ultimatum until 1 September to put an end to these illegal activities. Otherwise, they no longer want to cover the costs of helicopter rescue flights. The Nepalese government plans to set up a police unit in the Tourism Ministry that is to manage all rescues.

Not practicable

Lakpa Norbu Sherpa (r.) and Maurizio Folini

Lakpa Norbu Sherpa, who has been coordinating rescue on Mount Everest since 2003 as base camp manager of the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA), is sceptical. “Police officers are no specialists”, tells me the 37-year-old, who was trained as a helicopter rescuer in Switzerland in 2012. Similar comments are made by Maurizio Folini: “The solution is not practicable. The police have no idea how to save people in the mountains.” The 53-year-old helicopter pilot from Italy is a pioneer for rescue flights on the eight-thousanders in Nepal. Since 2011 Folini has been flying regularly on the highest mountains in the world, in 2013 he managed the highest longline helicopter rescue of all time when he brought down a Nepalese climber from 7,800 meter on Everest.

Tip of the iceberg

He repeatedly pointed out that many of the rescue flights declared in Nepal in recent years were in fact none at all, Maurizio says to me: “But as a pilot you have little influence there. Last spring I refused such flights. I only flew when I had real patients on board.” An investigation commission of the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism has meanwhile named eleven companies from the helicopter and trekking industry and four hospitals in Kathmandu that allegedly defrauded insurance companies. But this should only be the tip of the iceberg.

Baking soda mixed into food

Rescue flight on Everest

Mountain tourists are said to have been urged to get on the rescue helicopters even when they were slightly unwell. The Commission even reports of individual cases where local guides mixed baking soda as a laxative into food to provoke diarrhea and then persuaded their clients to return to Kathmandu on a rescue flight. Helicopters have been packed with several sick people, it said. However, the companies cashed it up with the insurance companies as several individual flights of the patients.

Three times higher invoice

Folini points out that most of the fake rescue flights start on the trekking routes, for example in Gorak Shep, the last settlement before Everest Base Camp, or in the Gokyo Valley, a popular trekking destination near the highest mountain on earth. “Trekking tourists or mountaineers are influenced by the agencies,” says Maurizio Folini. “The business is made by the agencies that invoice three times more than the real amount, 12,000 instead of 4,000 dollars per rescue.” According to Maurizio, some hospitals in Kathmandu also have “dirty fingers”. Many of the patients suffering from high altitude sickness who are now flown directly to the capital could just as easily be treated in the clinic in Lhukla, the gateway to the Everest region, he says.

Only half of the helicopters needed

Maurizio in the cockpit

According to the government commission, more than 1,300 helicopter rescues were reported in the first five months of 2018, causing insurance costs of more than 6.5 million dollars. “The biggest business for the helicopter companies is fake rescue,” says Folini. He suggests a kind of “filter” to get a grip on the problem: “We need a checkpoint like we already have in Everest Base Camp with the HRA. A doctor has to confirm that the helicopter transport is really necessary.” Maurizio believes that if the fake rescue flights were to disappear, half of the helicopters would be enough: “That would also be good for tourism in the Everest region. There’s too much flying now. You can hardly hike in the Khumbu without being disturbed by flight noise.”

Grievances also in the Alps

However, Folini warns against seeing the problem only through Western glasses. “Also in the Alps not everything is great,” says Maurizio, referring to prestigious mountains such as Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn, where much more people are climbing than on Everest and where, for example, the faeces problem is unsolved: “On Mont Blanc, the waste from the toilets often ends up on the glacier. And try to climb the Matterhorn without stepping into a pile!” Even in the Alps, not every helicopter flight is a “clean rescue”, says the experienced pilot, who has completed more than 14,000 flight hours since 1993. “Rescue is always business. How can we point a finger at a poor country like Nepal if we can’t solve our own problems at home?”

Helmi Lerjen, mountain guide and rescuer

Even the first ascent of the Matterhorn 150 years ago ended in tragedy. Four team members died during the descent from the summit, when a rope ruptured. Since then, more than 500 climbers died on the “Horu”, as the locals call the Matterhorn – more than on any other mountain in Switzerland. Year after year there are between 2,500 and 3,000 summit attempts, also resulting in a lot of work for mountain rescuers. Helmut called “Helmi” Lerjen comes from a true mountain guide family. In the fourth generation, the Lerjens are guiding clients on mountains like the Matterhorn. Helmi, who is living with his wife and daughter in the small village of Täsch, close to Zermatt, has also been working for the Mountain Rescue Zermatt for almost 15 years. The Matterhorn, 150 years after the first ascent, from the perspective of a mountain rescuer:

Dani, all over the world the Matterhorn is a symbol for Switzerland. How do you see this mountain? Or in other words, what does it mean to you?

I have so far climbed the Matterhorn with clients 187 times. As technical director of the mountain guides of Zermatt, I am also responsible for the maintenance of the fixed ropes on the Matterhorn. Even in the 19th century, my great-great-grandfather Josef and my great-grandfather Alois guided guests on the Horu. In 1930, my grandfather Joseph Lerjen tried to first climb the North Face, but the attempt of his team failed. (One year later, the German brothers Franz and Toni Schmid were successful.) Along with his colleague Kaspar Mooser and their client Emile Blanchet, my grandfather climbed with strong determination on the North Face. They were only using wooden ice axes and crampons without front points (!). Unfortunately, they had to retreat because of rock fall and bad conditions on the wall. The rocks were covered with a thin layer of ice. They climbed for several hours. It is not known what height they reached exactly. If one of the three had slipped, it had meant the death of all. With luck, they escaped the North Face unharmed. With these stories of my forefathers I have a very personal relationship with the Matterhorn.

Even the first ascent of the Matterhorn ended with a disaster. Four climbers lost their lives. Do mountain rescuers still discuss this tragedy as an example of what can happen on the Matterhorn?

Every accident on the Matterhorn or other mountains is tragic. For us as very experienced mountain rescuers, it is best if we are able to save the lives of climbers. By contrast, it is always sad to recover dead. In this case you can actually no longer speak of rescue. It’s rather a work that we have to do.

As the technical director of the mountain guides in Zermatt, you are responsible for the fixed ropes on the Matterhorn. How secure is the normal route?

It is very difficult to find the right path on the Hörnli Ridge. The lower part is like a labyrinth. As soon as you stray from the correct route, you immediately find yourself in loose rock, which can then be really dangerous.

Every year about 80 rescue flights are made on the Matterhorn. More than 500 climbers have already died on the mountain. This makes the Matterhorn in absolute terms the most dangerous Swiss mountain. What are the most frequent causes of accidents?

Rescue flight of Air Zermatt

The Matterhorn itself is not dangerous. It is the climber who makes it dangerous, for example by losing his way in the dark, then getting into loose rock and endangering other climbers by kicking off stones. As he gets lost, he is far too long on the mountain and becomes tired quickly. Then his concentration is rapidly decreasing.

Could many accidents be avoided and if yes how?

The Hörnli Ridge is one of the most difficult normal routes on four-thousanders in the Alps. Therefore, it is advisable to hire a mountain guide.

The Matterhorn is not a hiking mountain. Are many summit aspirants simply too careless?

I don’t believe that. It’s known that the Hörnli Ridge is one of the most challenging normal routes.

Too many climbers on a route almost inevitably lead to higher risk. Stones can be kicked off, there can be traffic jams on the route. Does a limitation of Matterhorn ascents make sense?

The construction of the new Hörnli Hut (the starting point on the summit day) has reduced the number of beds from 170 to 130. The ban of camping has led to 30 people less daily. So a total of about 70 people less will be on the way on Matterhorn per day. This ensures more safety.

If you could make the Matterhorn a present for the 150th anniversary of its first ascent, what would it be?

On 14 July 2015, exactly 150 years after the first ascent of the Matterhorn, no one will climb the mountain in honor of the first ascenders. I hope with all my heart that all mountaineers stick to it and that Horu has peace and quiet on this jubilee day.

Long line on the glacier

The clouds were hanging low, it was cool. Not exactly the perfect weather to tempt curious or spontaneous people to climb up to over 3,000 metre to the Koednitzkees, a glacier below the summit of Grossglockner, the highest mountain of Austria. On Saturday – as reported here – the “longest rope team of the world” should be formed there. A notary certified the number of participants of the action which in case of success should find its place in the Guinness Book of Records. Despite the bad weather 193 mountain friends roped up to a length of 600 metres. “The exercise has been successful,” said Peter Ladstätter, district head of the mountain rescue in Osttirol (Eastern Tyrol) who had organized the event.

Longer rope team on Tegelberg

It remains to be seen whether that’s enough for an entry in the Guinness Book. Afterwards the organizers were still speaking of the “longest rope team in the world”, but added “on a glacier higher than 3,000 metres”. In October 2012, about 400 employees of a Swiss outdoor company had formed an one kilometre long rope team on the ridge of (the non-glaciated, 1,881 metres high) Tegelberg in Bavaria in occasion of the company’s 150-year-anniversary. A notary was probably not present then.

Always roped up!

Meeting point Stüdlhütte

Record or not, that was not primarily the goal of the action in Osttirol. First and foremost mountain rescuers, mountain guides, the alpine police and the Centre of Alpine Excellence in Osttirol wanted to point out that climbers should always rope up before entering a glacier. In this way many falls into crevasses could end without serious consequences.

Rope up before you start!

The longest rope team of the world. That is the goal of an action on Grossglockner, which, if it works, will find its place in the Guinness Book of Records. On Saturday at 2 p.m. mountain rescuers of Osttirol (Eastern Tyrol) will rope up as many climbers as possible on the Koednitzkees, a glacier below the highest peak of Austria. A notary is commissioned by the Guinness Book of Records to count the participants. Afterwards the Austrian artist Dieter Remler will make a performance, according to the motto: “As free as an eagle, with a person’s mind”. This is just one of several actions in Osttirol during this weekend which is dedicated to safety in the mountains . I contacted Peter Ladstaetter, district head of mountain rescue in Osttirol. He has organized the action on the Koednitzkees .

Peter, what is the message of forming the longest rope team of the world?

Our key message is: It must be a standard to take a rope before you enter or cross a glacier. Unfortunately many do not know that glacial ice is always moving and therefore also crevasses are “walking”. There are many falls which only end without serious consequences – in most cases even unhurt – because the mountaineers are roped up.  A last year’s fall into a crevasse that ended with death gave us the idea to start a preventive campaign in order to raise awareness for alpine dangers. By the way, in my opinion not the mountain is dangerous, but the climber who doesn’t care about security standards.

Do you as rescuers notice that less climbers use ropes on glaciers with the consequence of avoidable accidents?

Not only mountain rescuers but all organizations with alpine competence have to take advantage of their opportunities (networks and know-how) to reach all climbers and hikers. 83 deaths year-to-date in the mountains of Tyrol (including Südtirol/South Tyrol) speak for themselves. The progress in technology and equipment in recent years allow us to go beyond our personal limits. Only if equipment, technology and knowledge harmonise, climbers can enjoy a wonderful and above all safe mountain adventure.

There are fatal accidents (as recently on the Sasso Lungo in Val Gardena), that might have ended less tragically if the climbers were not roped up. When should climbers rope up, when not?

Grossglockner, highest peak of Austria

Fatal accidents of whole rope teams are the absolute exception and usually have other reasons such as crossing a cornice or releasing a snow slab in case of fresh snow. We should not make the mistake of thinking that every accident is preventable. There will still be fatal mountain accidents, but we must do everything possible to inform climbers and hikers as well as possible and to raise awareness for alpine dangers. I am very pleased to see that an increasing number of people are attracted by nature to recharge their batteries. “People who love the mountains reflect the sunlight, those who remain in the valley, do not know their language.”