Iranian climbers and their guardians

Heavily armed police officers in the base camp – honestly, that would spoil my joy of mountaineering thoroughly. Soon these special forces are to be not only the exception but the rule in Pakistan, at least at “prestige mountains” like Nanga Parbat (8125 m), K 2 (8611 m) or Rakaposhi (7788 m) and also in much visited camps on the glaciers in the north of the country. In the region of Gilgit-Baltistan, a special “High Altitude Police Unit” was introduced this week. It consists of 50 men now and should be increased to 100 police officers later. The security forces get special clothing against the great cold and are trained by mountaineers, so that they may help in rescue operations in case of emergency. But first and foremost it is their duty to protect foreign climbers.“Because of the ongoing military offensive in the country, there is a high risk of reprisal attacks and we can’t afford to repeat any incident like Nanga Parbat”, police spokesman Mubarak Jan said. In June 2013, Islamist terrorists had killed eleven climbers in the base camp on the Diamir side, the north-west side of the mountain. One of the alleged assassins who had later been arrested today succeeded in breaking out of jail in Gilgit. Another prisoner who also tried to escape was shot dead.

Automatic weapons instead of Kalashnikovs

In 2014, some professional climbers, such as the Russian Denis Urubko or the German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber, decided not to go on expedition to Pakistan because of safety concerns. In the summer of 2014 not a single expedition pitched tents on Nanga Parbat. But in the last and this winter too, several climbers travelled to this insecure area near the border with Afghanistan. The risk of terrorist attacks is considered low in the cold season. In addition, Nanga Parbat is attracting mountaineers because it is the only eight-thousander besides K 2 which has never been climbed in winter. Already in the winter of 2014, western climbers were escorted by police on their way to Nanga Parbat base camp. The officers were armed with Kalashnikovs then. This winter, the security forces, that are to protect the remaining seven climbers from Spain, Italy, Iran and Pakistan in the base camp on the Diamir side, are carrying automatic weapons. Even if the Iranians describe their police escort as “kind and friendly”, I cannot imagine that the climbers do not wake up sometimes in their tents with a queasy feeling.

Joint summit attempt

Planned route

Probably they only feel really safe when they are climbing on the mountain – as they do now: Today the Basque Alex Txikon, the Italian Daniele Nardi, the Iranians Mahmood Hashemi, Reza Bahadorani and Iraj Maani and the two Pakistanis Muhammad Ali and Muhammad Khan set off for a summit attempt. They reached Camp 1 at 5050 meters. “(It) seems that the best days (best conditions) for summit try will be next Tuesday or Wednesday”, Alex writes in his blog. The climbers had made deposits with mountain equipment up to an altitude of 6700 meters before. After heavy snowfall in the past few days they will probably have to dig it up. And the avalanche risk is likely to be considerable.

Learning patience on Manaslu

Above the Naike Col at about 5700 m

Without police protection, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro meanwhile established their base camp on Manaslu in Nepal and explored their route up to about 5900 meters. For the 28-year-old South Tyrolean Lunger it is the first winter expedition in the Himalayas. She has to bridle her temper, Tamara writes on her homepage. “I have to admit that I still have to learn to be patient, because as soon as the wind decreased today, I regretted the decision that we climbed down again today. In my mind I would see myself already on 7000 meters tomorrow and with the next window of good weather on the summit (if we are granted to do so). But thanks to Simone, who indeed has enough experience, I can restrain somehow my ideas, and just try to live on one of my resolutions: Enjoy the moment!” Simone Moro is an old hand in winter climbing. The expedition to Manaslu is his 13th in the cold season. The Italian made three first winter ascents of eight-thousanders: Shishapangma (2005), Makalu (2009) and Gasherbrum II (2011).

Update 28.2.: The climbers on Nanga Parbat reached an altitude of 5,300 meters, then returned to base camp. “Too snowy today, dangerous”, Alex Txikon wrote on Twitter. “Will keep on.” Reportedly the three Iranian climbers decided to end their winter expedition due to the dangerous conditions on the mountain.

Karakoram Highway

It has gotten dark. For hours we have been racing with our minibus down the Karakoram Highway to the north. Time to stretch our legs. Near the town of Chilas we stop at a tea room. Some long-bearded men are sitting in front. We start talking. Smalltalk: “How are you?” “Where are you from, where are you going?” Suddenly my mountain guide is gesticulating wildly. I shall get back into our bus quickly. Inside I ask him why he was so excited. “Bad men, dangerous!”, answers my Pakistani companion. Until now I think that he overreacted then, in the summer of 2004. But I remembered this episode again when I was informed about the murder attack on eleven climbers on Nanga Parbat last weekend.

Allegedly 14 attackers identified

Meanwhile the police authorities of Gilgit-Baltistan are trying to signal that they have the situation under control again. 16 terrorists had been identified, police chief Usman Zakaria said. The perpetrators were still hiding somewhere in the Diamir valley. After the bloody attack of last weekend all expeditions had to leave the west side of Nanga Parbat and returned to Islamabad. I asked the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) whether the whole Nanga Parbat area will stay closed all summer long.

Only Romanians are still there

“Only five groups comprising various nationalities had applied for Nanga Parbat and were climbing during the summer season, out of which four were attempting Diamir side and one (Romanians) was attempting Rupal side”, ACP President Manzoor Hussain answered. The expeditions on the Diamir side had been evacuated due to the attack and would not be going back. The group on the Rupal side was still climbing the mountain. “Certainly as there are no more applications for climbing Nanga Parbat during summer hence the season is over”, Manzoor Hussain concluded. And what about the Romanians?

For security or to bring bad news?

The climbers on the Rupal face are obviously unsure whether they have to leave the mountain too. “We worked so hard. I do not want to finish like this”, Torok Zsolt complained, after he had reached a height of 7200 metres together with his teammate Aurel Salasan. Both climbers went down to Camp 2 on 6000 metres to consult with the other expedition members about how to proceed. Allegedly, two police officers are waiting at base camp. It’s still unclear whether they were sent for security reasons or simply to end the expedition. I’m still waiting for a reply to the request I sent to the Pakistani agency which has organized the expedition for the Romanians.

Update 10:00 p.m.: Mohammad Ali of the agency Karakurum Magic Mountains has informed me that the final decision will be made on Friday (28th June).

Update 28th June: The Romanians decided to continue their expedition on Nanga Parbat. “Evacuation would have been the easiest choice for us, but we also didn’t chose the easiest route on the mountain. We go forword! We thank you for the good thoughts and don’t worry for us, because is a negative energy”, Zsolt said.

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