Tomek Mackiewicz

The internet is to blame. Today we are used to following expeditions on the highest mountains and in the remotest regions of the world almost in real time via Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or blogs. Our perception has changed as well: Much faster than before, we assume something must have happened if we do not hear anything for longer than expected. So what’s up with Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol, who wanted to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat this Thursday? The answer is simple: We do not know yet.

No panic!

I contacted Tomek’s wife. “No news yet,” she replied. She could not confirm today’s posts on Twitter that Mackiewicz and Revol were climbing above 8000 meters. “I guess they are on their way down. With summit or without.” Maybe the battery of the satellite phone are down, she added, then we might not hear anything for a few days until they reach the base camp. She points out that it is a low-budget expedition, without spare batteries, without radio connection. Tomek’s wife does not panic: “I know him, and I know no news is rather good news…” So let’s wait and stay calm!

P.S.: Tomorrow I will be on the road all day long and most probably offline. Please do not jump to conclusions but try to inform yourself from other sources on Tomek and Elisabeth on Nanga Parbat!

Update 26.1., 9 a.m.: According to Janusz Majer, an old master of Polish Himalayan climbing, Tomei and Elisabeth got stuck at 7,400 m yesterday. He refers to information from France. A rescue operation was organized, it said.

Tomek Mackiewicz on Nanga Parbat

Ready, go! “We are at 7,300 (meters). Terrible fight,” Tomek Mackiewicz is quoted on his Facebook page in telegram style. “If weather permits, tomorrow summit.” If not now, when?, we could add. On Thursday, by far the lowest wind speeds this week are expected for the 8,125 meter summit of Nanga Parbat: 20 to 25 km/h. In addition a few clouds and temperatures of minus 42 degrees Celsius. Thereafter, the wind is to refresh again and reach storm strength at the weekend.

Keep cool!

The 43-year-old Pole Mackiewicz and his 37-year-old French climbing partner Elisabeth Revol, both en route without bottled oxygen, climbed via the still unfinished Messner route. In winter 2015, the two climbers had reached an altitude of 7,800 meters on Nanga Parbat, but had then been forced back by the cold and windy weather. “When I reached out, I could ‘feel’ the summit with the touch of my finger. It was very close,” Elisabeth later reported. “My heartbeat increased, but we were to remain calm.” She and Tomek should also keep cool in their current attempt.

Restless night in Camp 2 on K2

Denis Urubko in Camp 2

The Polish team on K2, with an altitude of 8,611 meters the second highest mountain on earth, has pitched up Camp 2 on the Cesen Route. Denis Urubko was the first to reach the ledge at 6,300 meters and spent one night there: “The tent was shaken strongly by the storm, but somehow I managed to sleep enough.” Denis then descended to the base camp. Three more teammates will be spending the night to Thursday in Camp 2 too, to further acclimatize. The team led by the old master Krzysztof Wielicki wants to succeed  the first winter ascent of K2. The mountain is the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed in the cold season.

Tomek Mackiewicz on Nanga Parbat

Do you already have aching muscles from keeping fingers crossed? Your pain could become even stronger. Because the summit bid of the Pole Tomek Mackiewicz and the Frenchwoman Elisabeth Revol that was expected already for Sunday is delayed. “We are in Camp 3, (it’s) windy (with speeds of)  about 100 km/h,” Tomek is quoted today on his Facebook page. “Tomorrow Camp 4, summit push (on) 25 January. Good weather (is expected for) that day.” In fact, the weather forecast for the summit at 8,125 meters predicts for Thursday the lowest wind speeds this week: between 15 and 25 km/h. Assuming this forecast is correct, it will be almost calm, however with minus 42 degrees Celsius quite cold, some clouds are expected. Mackiewicz and Revol climb without bottled oxygen.

Urubko first climber in Camp 2

K2

Meanwhile, the climbers of the Polish winter expedition are making progress on K2. According to the Facebook page “Polski Himalaim Zimowy 2016-2020” (Polish winter climbing in the Himalayas 2016-2020), Denis Urubko has reached Camp 2 on the Cesen route at 6,300 meters and will spend the night there. Artur Malek and Marek Chmielarski are in Camp 1 at 5,900 meters, it says. K2, with 8,611 m the second highest mountain on earth, is the only eight-thousander that has never been scaled in winter so far.

After Pumori now Everest

On Mount Everest the Spaniard Alex Txikon, the Pakistani Muhammad Ali “Sadpara” and the two Nepalese Nuri Sherpa and Temba Bhote returned from their ascent of the 7161-meter-high Pumori – in their backpacks this small, but nice video:

This winter, Txikon and Ali, two of the three first winter ascenders of Nanga Parbat in 2016, want to reach the summit of Everest at 8,850 meters without breathing masks.

Nanga Parbat

It’s time for the Pole Tomek Mackiewicz and the Frenchwoman Elisabeth Revol this Sunday. According to Polish media information, the two climbers wanted to start at 2 a.m. local time (Saturday 10 p.m. CET) from their last high camp at 7,200 meters towards the summit. It will be their first and last attempt, it said. For Sunday, clear weather with temperatures of minus 33 degrees Celsius and wind speeds of about 60 kilometers per hour is expected for the highest point of Nanga Parbat at 8,125 meters. Mackiewicz and Revol are climbing without bottled oxygen.

Summit of Pumori reached

Txikon and Co. on the summit of Pumori

Meanwhile, the Spaniard Alex Txikon and the Pakistani Muhammad Ali “Sadpara” have scaled the seven-thousander Pumori vis-à-vis Mount Everest on Saturday. According to Txikons’ team, they reached along with the Nepalese climbers Nuri and Temba Bothe around noon local time the 7,161-meter-high summit. “The wind was very strong, but we all are fine,” Alex said. “A very technical and in some moments dangerous mountain.” After returning to the base camp, Txikon and Co. want to focus again on their actual goal, a winter ascent of Everest without bottled oxygen.

Polish climbers on K 2 above 6000 meters

On K 2, the second highest mountain in the world, the Polish winter expedition is slowly working their way upwards. On Saturday, a team of some climbers was busy securing the Cesen route above 6,000 meters with fixed ropes.