The Indian subcontinent has a rich sartorial tradition. Copyright: dapd.

The world outside has been busy speculating on the breakdown of the foreign secretary level talks between India and Pakistan, but the mood at the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Winter/Festive 2014 remained untouched by the political tensions between the two countries. If anything, the three Pakistani designers who debuted at the 15th edition of the prestigious fashion event in Mumbai, displayed oodles of creativity on the ramp and were rewarded with thundering applause and appreciation from their Indian counterparts as well as fashion pundits and enthusiasts in the audience.

Zara Shahjahan at the LIFW 2014

Amidst a warm response Sania Maskatiya, Zara Shahjahan and Rizwan Beyg showcased their collections that represented the contemporary face of Pakistani fashion. “We are thrilled to be participating for the first time on such a large scale in India. As we look to expand our brands regionally and internationally this experience is sure to provide an excellent opportunity for us to grow and forge new relationships,’” chorused the trio.

The myth about Pakistan’s conservative tradition

There is a general perception that Pakistani women adhere to the strict dictates of their conservative culture and always cover their heads whatever their attire. But the Karachi-based designer Sania Maskatiya, 31, was quick to bust this myth. She said, “The youth in Pakistan is extremely fashion-forward and dresses quite well. Accessibility to various media has ensured that people are generally up to date with all the current trends. In fact, it is quite exciting to see them give their own interpretation to fashion.”

Maskatiya, who launched her own label in 2007, has dressed some of the most well-known and influential women in her country, including Oscar Winning Filmmaker Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy. For her LIFW show, the designer, who has a degree in textile design from the prestigious Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture in Karachi, focused on beautiful Japanese prints. Her collection, “Sakura” has been inspired by nature. The clothes have embellishments that are distinctly Japanese – there are landscapes and hints of treasure chest motifs.

Culture is not a hindrance to fashion

Like Maskatiya, Zara Shahjahan, 34, strongly felt that although Pakistani youngsters like to remain within their cultural boundaries it doesn’t stop them from being fashionable. She said, “We are known for our immaculate craftsmanship and traditional, detail oriented handwork. The best part about Pakistani fashion is that as designers we get to infuse our crafts to create fusion apparel. We may be restricted by cultural boundaries but that only pushes us to create clothes that are truly unique. Western cuts and international colour and print trends are followed keeping our limitations in mind.”

A proud Pakistani, Shahjahan added that whether it is Western wear or classic Pakistani clothes, the average citizen can carry both styles with panache. “The standard salwar-kameez ensemble has many variations influenced by Western silhouettes and that helps designers like me to create garments that are not just Pakistani but can be worn across the globe,”’ said the young woman.

Bringing back old traditions

Designer Faiza Samee couldn’t attend the fashion week at Mumbai because of visa problems.

A designer who was scheduled to participate at the LFW but had to pull out at the last minute due to visa problems is Faiza Samee, one of the pioneering couturists in the Pakistani fashion industry, who has done considerable work towards reviving the heritage of the stitches from Sindh. Her designs have been worn by former Pakistan Prime Minister late Benazir Bhutto and she has exhibited pieces at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London as well.

Having been a designer for over three decades Samee has seen her domestic industry evolve. “In the late 1960s, fashion had become very trendy – with short shifts and straight narrow pants. New polyester fabric came into vogue and traditional embroideries went into a decline. During the early 1980s, I started feeling that our centuries old textile heritage was at risk of being lost forever. I set up a small workshop, the main purpose of which was to bring the embroideries back into the mainstream, so that they could be part of current fashion,” she said.

Local art forms in Pakistan

Restoring local art forms as well as ensuring the sustenance of ‘karigars’ have been big on the agenda of most Pakistani designers. As an extension of this philosophy of empowerment Rizwan Beyg roped in rural women to create his Digitruck collection with the signature funky truck art of Pakistan that created quite a stir at the LFW with its bright colour scheme.

Of course, in addition to supporting grassroots artisans these conscious designers have been lending their name to social causes. For instance, Maskatiya has designed scarves for Layton Rahmatulla Benevolent Trust (LRBT) that provides free eye care for the poor in Pakistan.

Why scarves? Said Maskatiya, “They serve as a great accessory and are quite versatile. We collaborated with a leading textile mill in Pakistan to create scarves for LRBT. All the proceeds from the sale of this collection go towards funding their good work. The project is called Colours of Life because by restoring their eyesight we bring back colour to people’s lives.’’

Author: Surekha Kadapa Bose

Editor: Manasi Gopalakrishnan

This is a story from Womens Features Service.