Nancy at 6,400 m at Gasherbrum VI

The seven-thousander Gasherbrum VI in the Karakoram in Pakistan remains unclimbed. 54-year-old Ralf Dujmovits, Germany’s most successful high-altitude climber, and 47-year-old Canadian Nancy Hansen abandoned their attempt to first climb the 6,973-meter-high mountain (other elevation: 7,004 meters) in the Karakoram. They turned around at an altitude of 6,400 meters. “We did our best,” Ralf tells me via satellite phone. “Nancy fought in the slabs like a bear. It just was not meant to be. Finally we don’t want to commit suicide.”

In the gully

Spectacular campground

Just getting from Base Camp to the Col at 6,197 meters was difficult. The 700-meter-high, up to 60 degrees steep snow and ice gully was interspersed with seracs, says Dujmovits, so far the only German who has scaled all 14 eight-thousanders. In their second try, Nancy and Ralf reached the Col, “with the view on Chogolisa, Masherbrum and Muztagh Tower, one of the most spectacular places where I have ever pitched my tent.”

Belaying was not possible

Ralf above the Col

The rock barrier above the Col was a too hard nut to crack for the two climbers. “We had hoped for a thicker snow or ice crust so that more ice climbing would have been possible,” says Ralf. “But the marble-like slabs, covered with a thin layer of ‘sugar’ snow, didn’t offer any opportunity to set even the thinnest knifeblade piton.” After two failed attempts, Dujmovits and Hansen decided reluctantly to abandon their attempt to first climb Gasherbrum VI. “It was exciting to enter unknown ground,” says Ralf. “Of course, we are a bit disappointed. We have invested a lot of time and effort into this project.”

Next goal: Praqpa Ri

Nancy Hansen (l.) and Ralf Dujmovits

There is yet another chance remaining. On Thursday, Ralf and Nancy will break their Base Camp at the foot of Gasherbrum VI and move it about nine hours’ walk away to a place near K 2. There they want to have a try on Praqpa Ri, another unclimbed seven-thousander (there are different altitude data: 7,134 and 7,152 meters). “There we will able to do more ice climbing,” says Dujmovits. After three nights at 6,200 meters on Gasherbrum VI, he and Nancy feel well acclimatized and in good health. “We remain positive and hope that it will work on Praqpa Ri.”