Giant contrast to 2016

Last March, Ralf and I were in Thulosirubari when the first two of three planned parts of the new school building were inaugurated. The whole village was in a party mood. I looked into hundreds of smiling faces that communicated optimism. Not only at the school, everywhere in Thulosirubari construction work was on. What a contrast to my visit two years earlier! In 2016, one year after the earthquake, the village had still been a field of ruins, the inhabitants had seemed depressed, paralyzed.

Thank you for your big heart!

Third construction phase

“School up!” – as I had the chance to experience last March and the memory of it still warms my heart – is so much more than just an investment in a building that ensures that the students no longer have to be taught in corrugated iron sheds: The new school has become a symbol of hope and a new beginning. It is impossible to forget the natural disaster of 2015, but the people of Thulosirubari are now looking to the future – thanks to your generosity.

And it is this generosity that I would like to appeal to again shortly before Christmas: Please continue donating for “School up!” because we have not yet crossed the finishing line! The construction work on the third part of the building is in progress and must be financed. Here is the bank account again:

Recipient: Nepalhilfe Beilngries e.V.
Bank: Volksbank Bayern Mitte eG/Germany
IBAN: DE05 7216 0818 0004 6227 07
BIC/SWIFT-Code: GENODEF1INP
Intended purpose: Gerlinde and Ralf School

Nancy Hansen (r.) and Ralf Dujmovits at the DLR

“We were the mice for five weeks,” says Nancy Hansen describing the time she and Ralf Dujmovits – as reported – spent in a hypoxia chamber at the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in Cologne half a year ago. The goal of the study was to find out whether, under certain circumstances, extreme hypoxia can lead to a strengthening of the heart in humans – as previously found out in two experiments with mice in the USA. After an acclimatization phase of around two weeks, the climbers had spent 16 days at a simulated altitude of 6,700 meters or higher, including four days at an oxygen content of only eight percent, which corresponds to 7,112 meters. “I suffered quite a lot,” admits Nancy. “But it was a big privilege to be part of the study.” Ralf is also still impressed by the experience: “I was hard on the edge. To be honest, I wouldn’t do it again. I underestimated the whole thing.” Last week the couple was in Cologne again – for one of several follow-up examinations. The first preliminary results of the study are now available.

Only 56 percent oxygen saturation

Pulmonary function test on the climbing wall

Extreme hypoxia initially had different effects on the bodies of Nancy and Ralf. Ralf, due to his many expeditions to eight-thousanders apparently better accustomed to the lack of oxygen, acclimatized much easier than Nancy. “One of the DLR doctors told me: ‘I hope you feel better than you look’,” she remembers and smiles. Once, the 50-year-old Canadian had an oxygen saturation of only 56 percent, a hospital patient would have been a case for intensive care. A DLR team was on duty around the clock for the two climbers. The scientists took blood and urine samples, carried out ultrasound and MRI examinations or cognitive tests. The analysis of the huge amount of data from the various tests is far from complete.

Both climbers lost muscle mass, they slept worse. It was astonishing that Nancy’s and Ralf’s responsiveness and concentration ability remained almost constant, even under extreme hypoxia. “However with the restriction that they were really challenged by the cognitive tests and had to concentrate,” says Dr. Ulrich Limper, who led the DLR study together with Prof. Jens Tank. During normal conversation, some “dropouts” were noticed.

Kidney performance also declined

Leaving the hypoxia chamber after five weeks

In Nancy’s heart, the right ventricle swelled and the pumping capacity decreased. In her brain, minor so called “White Matter Lesions” occured, which are frequently found in elderly people. In Ralf’s brain, the veins swelled over time without the 57-year-old suffering from severe headaches. In addition, the kidneys of both climbers worked much worse under hypoxia – albeit still sufficiently. “The good news is that all symptoms disappeared within 30 hours after Nancy and Ralf had left the hypoxia chamber and breathed normal air again,” says Dr. Fabian Hofmann, one of the DLR doctors.

It is not yet possible to say whether a damaged human heart is positively influenced by extreme hypoxia, as found out in the mice experiment. “We were dealing here with two healthy hearts of top athletes,” says Hofmann. “But it’s amazing what we can do to the hearth without structural change.” Further studies are to follow, if possible also with heart patients.

P.S.: Nancy and Ralf are about to set off for an expedition to Antarctica – to significantly lower altitudes than simulated at the DLR.

The day draws to an end

Even the darkness cannot prevent construction from continuing in Thulosirubari. For 18 hours, concrete is mixed in the small mountain village 70 kilometers east of the Nepalese capital Kathmandu, transported upwards and distributed, then finally the second floor slab is casted. “Only one machine for mixing concrete was used for the work, the rest was done by physical labor,” writes Shyam Pandit, liaison man of the German aid organisation Nepalhilfe Beilngries. “Special skilled laborers were brought from Kathmandu for the casting.” After the first two parts of the new school building have been used for teaching since last spring, the construction work for the third section is now on the home straight: If everything goes according to plan, the new building with eight more classrooms could be completed in spring 2019.

Great opportunity for the people of Thulosirubari

The third section, on the right one of the two already completed parts of the building

“I am so happy to see the constructioin of the school building”, says Ram Sharan BK, Chairman of the School Management Committee. “It is a great opportunity for us to rebuild the school so quickly after the 2015 earthquake.” On behalf of the students and their parents, Ram Sharan said, he thanked Nepalhilfe Beilngries and the donators of “School up!”. He hopes “that the support will continue until the construction work will have been completed and also afterwards to further improve the education”.

Highly motivated students

The more than 500 students are also delighted with the new premises. “Everyone will feel safe from disasters such as earthquake, fire, storm, etc.,” writes Resina Nepali from Class 10 and promises: “The students will be regularly in the classrooms and increase the hard work after completing reconstruction of the building.” For Sabita Shrestha from Class 12, the fact of being able to be taught in the same building reinforces the feeling of equality in everyone. “The buildings help to improve our education better than before.”

“Our God in Germany”

Working till late at night

Once again I would like to ask you not to let up in your support of our aid project “School up!”, which I launched after the devastating earthquake in Nepal in 2015 with the top climbers Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits, in order to rebuild the destroyed school of Thulosirubari as quickly as possible. We still need money to finish the construction work as planned. “I would like to thank the donators,” writes student Resina. “They are our God from Germany.”

Here once again the bank account:

Recipient: Nepalhilfe Beilngries e.V.
Bank: Volksbank Bayern Mitte eG/Germany
IBAN: DE05 7216 0818 0004 6227 07
BIC/SWIFT-Code: GENODEF1INP
Intended purpose: Gerlinde and Ralf School

If you indicate this intended purpose, the money will end up in Thulosirubari. A thousand thanks also from me! You are great!

Construction side in Thulosirubari (on the right the two already completed school buildings)

“The construction work is going smoothly,” writes Shyam Pandit, who coordinates the projects of the German aid organisation Nepalhilfe Beilngries in the Himalayan state. At the end of last week, Shyam once again visited the construction site of the new school in the mountain village of Thulosirubari, some 70 kilometers east of the capital Kathmandu. After teaching in the first two parts of the building started as well as using the corresponding toilet block, the third and last section of the building is being constructed right next door. Your donations made this possible for our aid project “School up!”, which I founded together with the two climbers Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits after the devastating earthquake in 2015, in order to rebuild the destroyed school in Thulosirubari as quickly as possible.

Please do not let up!

Concreting of the floor slab

The first floor slab of the third section of the new school building has just been concreted. The next step is to build the walls for the second floor. Another toilet block will also be built next to this building. As you can see, we have already come a long way, but not yet reached our destination. Shyam Pandit quotes the contractor as saying that construction could be completed in spring 2019. Let’s wait and see! But of course we can only go on if we don’t run out of money. So, please continue to support “School up!” with your donations. They will be used exclusively for this project if you indicate “Gerlinde and Ralf School” as intended purpose. Here again the bank account details:

Recipient: Nepalhilfe Beilngries e.V.
Bank: Volksbank Bayern Mitte eG/Germany
IBAN: DE05 7216 0818 0004 6227 07
BIC/SWIFT-Code: GENODEF1INP
Intended purpose: Gerlinde and Ralf School

Thanks a million for your support, also on behalf of Thulosirubari’s children, their parents and their teachers. You are great!

The bricks are already there

Your donations for our aid project “School up!” continue to work. The base plate for the third section of the new school in the small mountain village of Thulosirubari, 70 kilometers east of the Nepalese capital Kathmandu, has now been concreted. In the next step, the bricks for the walls of the first floor will be laid. Ralf Dujmovits – the so far only German climber to have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders – and I had laid the foundation stone for the third construction phase with another eight classrooms in mid-March. At that time, the first two buildings had been festively inaugurated.

Not yet at the finish line

The old school of Thulosirubari had been damaged by the devastating earthquake in Nepal at the end of April 2015 so badly that it had had to be demolished. In June 2015, I had founded “School up!” with Ralf and the Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner – the first woman in the world to stand on the summits of all eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen – in order to rebuild the destroyed school as quickly as possible. We have already come a long way, but have not yet reached our goal and need further donations. Here once again the bank account of “School up!”:

Recipient: Nepalhilfe Beilngries e.V.
Bank: Volksbank Bayern Mitte eG/Germany
IBAN: DE05 7216 0818 0004 6227 07
BIC/SWIFT-Code: GENODEF1INP
Intended purpose: Gerlinde and Ralf School

Thanks a million! You are great!

With Nancy Hansen (r.) and Ralf Dujmovits in the DLR hypoxia chamber

And suddenly the call came from space: “Here is Alex”. At first Ralf Dujmovits did not know who was talking at the other end of the telephone line: “Alex? Then I suddenly recognized the voice I had heard two days earlier during the broadcast of the rocket launch.” Alexander Gerst inquired from the International Space Station (ISS) about the condition of the German climber and his Canadian partner Nancy Hansen in the hypoxia chamber of the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in Cologne. “It sounded like he was sitting next door.” For a quarter of an hour, Ralf, the first and so far only German climber to have scaled all 14 eight-thousanders, spoke to “Astro Alex”, the first German astronaut to take command of the ISS. “He was very interested in our experience in the lab. That was great.” Of course, Nancy talked to Gerst too. For both climbers it was a “real highlight”, says the 49-year-old Canadian.

Underestimated strain

Alexander Gerst watching World Cup football at the ISS

After five weeks in the 110 square meter hypoxia chamber, the door will open for Dujmovits and Hansen on Tuesday. Then the experiment will be over, in which it should be tested whether heart functions improve during a long stay in extremely thin air. Ralf and Nancy spent the last two weeks all day at a simulated altitude of 6.718 meters and slept at night at 6,490 meters. That left its mark. “You see us quite tired here,” says Ralf, when I visit them (with bottled oxygen) again last weekend. “I had expected otherwise. I was convinced that we would be a little tired at first, but after a while we would get so accustomed to the low-oxygen conditions that we would be able to cope well with it. I underestimated how exhausting the whole thing is.”

“A huge success”

One reason for this fatigue may be that – as it turned out with Ralf’s MRI – the blood in the veins of the brain has become extremely congested over time and the veins are swollen now. “I’ve never seen it so massive. At first glance, you’re not happy about this,” says Dr. Ulrich Limper, who leads the DLR study together with Prof. Jens Tank. “On the other hand, it is not a direct threat. We assume it will regress.” In four weeks, Dujmovits and Hansen will return to DLR for their first follow-up examination.

The scientists have collected a great deal of data that will now be evaluated. First results are expected to be available within six months. “It’s already a huge success for us,” says Limper. “The concept worked, we learned a lot. We are still cautious, but clinically it looks as if our hypothesis that certain heart functions improve under the influence of hypoxia could be confirmed. If we can substantiate that with the data, it would be great.” The study might even lead to new therapies for heart attack patients.

“Swollen” heart

Nancy on the mobile climbing wall

Originally, it had been planned that, after an acclimatization phase, the two climbers would live day and night at a simulated altitude of 7,112 metres for two weeks. But the scientists had to change their arrangements. At that simulated height, Nancy’s pulmonary artery pressure – the pressure with which the oxygen-poor blood is pressed from the heart into the lungs – was significantly increased. The right half of her heart was therefore, to put it simply, “swollen”, Nancy’s values were at the limit. “From our point of view it would not have been successful to ‘chase’ her up”, says Limper. “Her condition probably would have gotten worse.” Therefore the simulated altitude was lowered to below 7,000 meters, at night even further down than during the day. “Nancy’s body coped with this. Her values slowly improved and towards the end approached those of Ralf again.”

Not much higher than 7,000 meters

Does the body learn from frequent stays at high altitude?

According to Limper, it is assumed that in Nancy’s case it was a “normal reaction of a heart that is simply not yet accustomed to very high altitudes”. Ralf also told about health problems during his first expeditions, which no longer occured during his later projects. “There may be something like a long-term adaptation,” says the physician, adding that this has not yet been scientifically proven.

Nancy’s troubles made her and Ralf think. “It shouldn’t be a problem to tackle a seven-thousander where we spend the last night at 6,300 or 6,500 meters,” says Ralf. “But above that altitude, Nancy could suffer some damage to health. That’s what we’ve learned, and we’ll take that into account, of course.”

Constantly felt cold

Less muscular mass

During the time in the hypoxia chamber, both climbers have lost more than two kilograms of body weight each, primarily muscle mass. “The upper arms have become thinner,” says Ralfs, “and where normally the trousers are taut on the thighs, now everything flaps.” The climbers’ weight loss was lower than expected, says Ulrich Limper. “We attribute it to the fact that apart from hypoxia they had no stress factors as usual in the mountains: no cold, no pitching up the tent, no continuous physical strain. In the end, they moved very little.” Nancy and Ralf tried to stay reasonably fit on a treadmill, an ergometer and a mobile climbing wall. One of the surprising findings for the scientists was that Ralf was exhausted after 50 minutes on the ergometer, but did not sweat at all. It also seemed unusual that despite a room temperature of 24 degrees Celsius Nancy and Ralf felt so cold that they pulled two jackets over their T-shirts. So there are still a few question marks.

Into the sun!

“It was worth the effort”

Nancy and Ralf do not regret getting involved in the DLR experiment. On the contrary. “I would do it again,” says Nancy. “Scientifically I found the whole thing incredibly interesting. Of course, not every moment was fun, but overall it was an amazing experience that was pretty unique.” Also for Ralf “it was absolutely worth the effort”: “We leave the project healthy. And if we can make a contribution to the future development of a therapy for heart attack patients, then everything is perfect.”

And what are they looking forward to the most? “Sunshine,” Nancy answers quick like a shot. Ralf especially longs to see his family and friends again and is looking forward to sitting in the garden, running through the woods or cycling on his mountain bike for hours: “We had an incredibly committed team of scientists and doctors around us. We enjoyed it, it was exciting, and we learned a lot. But now it’s good that we’re coming home.”

Visiting Ralf Dujmovits (r.) with mask

Bottled oxygen on a mountain has always been out of the question for me. On principle. Today I made an exception – for a “virtual mountain”. To be able to visit Ralf Dujmovits, the only German mountaineer who has scaled all 14 eight-thousanders, and his partner, the Canadian climber Nancy Hansen, it is mandatory to use a breathing mask. After two weeks in the hypoxia chamber of the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in Cologne, the two test persons have reached the simulated target altitude of 7,112 meters. The percentage of oxygen in the air, normally 21 percent, was gradually reduced to eight percent by adding nitrogen. “It’s like climbing a mountain. The acclimatization is almost done, now we’re heading for the summit,” says Ralf. “The time on the summit will be of course much longer.”

Short rest, then things gets serious

Nancy Hansen’s blood pressure is checked

In the coming days, Ralf and Nancy can once again briefly “descend” to breathe thicker air. On 4 June, however, the crucial phase of the study will begin, during which the two climbers are to stay constantly at a simulated altitude of 7,112 metres for two weeks. The aim is to test whether extreme hypoxia can strengthen the heart and even lead to the formation of new cells. If this finding from experiments with mice can be confirmed in humans, completely new therapeutic approaches would be conceivable for heart attack patients.

How much physical deterioration will there be?

Eight percent oxygen content

“We are both excited,” reveals Nancy. “I think the first few days will be okay. And then either it will feel normal or we start to deteriorate. Nobody really knows.“ Ralf recalls the French climber Nicolas Jaeger, who in 1979 in a self experiment spent two months alone in the summit area of the 6,768-metre-high Huascaran in Peru: “Cognitively he felt not so bad. In the end, physical deterioration became the major problem for him. I expect the same from us. We’re probably going to lose a lot of muscle.”

Breathe properly

So far, Hansen and Dujmovits have coped well with the low-oxygen time in the DLR’s hypoxia chamber. In any case, you can’t see yet what a burden they’re under. “I had three, four pretty bad headaches, mostly in the night,” says Nancy. “But it has gotten better.”  The 49-year-old Canadian finds it fascinating to see “what’s happening inside of our bodies, also in comparison between Ralf and I”. Her partner acclimatizes much better than her, says Nancy: “The way his lungs exchange oxygen with his heart is very different to my exchange. Ralf is teaching me how to breathe properly in here.”

Currently no climbing wall training

Pulmonary function test on the climbing wall

Dujmovits estimates that he has now lost “40 to 45 percent performance”. Dosed endurance training on the bicycle ergometer or the treadmill is still possible at the current simulated altitude of around 7,000 meters, says the 56-year-old. However, the two are currently stay well clear of the mobile climbing wall in the hypoxia chamber. “The strain on the muscles is much greater, and we get very quickly into the anaerobic phase. But we want to avoid an oxygen defiency that would cause immediately headaches,” says Ralf.

No cabin fever

I ask whether the relationship of the two test persons is put to a serious test by the long time in the hypoxia chamber? “Not so far,” Nancy replies, laughing. “We spend so much time together. There are no problems at all, and I don’t expect any.” Ralf nods. “I think it’s important to keep stress out of a relationship. We’ve done quite well so far.”

No Big Brother

Nancy and Ralf in the DLR hypoxia chamber

Even the constant camera surveillance doesn’t bother them anymore. “We’re not making  ‘Big Brother’ here,” says Dujmovits. “We know that the scientists are trustworthy with everything that can be seen here.” Meanwhile they almost ignore the cameras’ existence. “This morning I was just walking around the rooms in my underpants. Only on my way back I realized that everyone in the surveillance room could see me like this.” Ralf emphasizes that the whole experiment is “a team effort”. The climber specifically praises the committed DLR scientists: “They are here for us 24 hours a day in an all-round shift work.”  Nancy is also enthusiastic about the team. “All the staff here have been treating us so well. We feel really like a prince and a princess.”

Nobukazu Kuriki (1982 -2018)

The Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki has been found dead today on Mount Everest. The 35-year-old had reported yesterday from Camp 3 at 7,400 meters via Facebook. It was hard, said Kuriki, assuring he would be careful. This morning, his team informed that Nobukazu was in bad shape and that he was descending. Later, he did not respond to radio calls. His camera crew climbed up and found Kuriki lifeless near Camp 2.

Fever in Everest Base Camp

Kuriki en route to Everest in April

The Japanese had pre-acclimatized in his homeland by hypoxia training, then in Nepal did a very fast ascent of the 6038-meter-high Chulu Far East in the Annapurna area and subsequently trekked through the Khumbu to Everest Base Camp. Arriving there, he suffered from a strong cough and fever. He still had a slight cough, but it was almost gone, Kuriki had said two days ago on Facebook.

Solo and without bottled oxygen

Kuriki at 6,800 m in the Everest North Face in fall 2016

It was already Nobukazu’s eighth attempt on Everest. He had set his mind on climbing the highest mountain in the world without bottled oxygen and solo. In 2017, the Japanese had planned to climb through the Everest North Face. Because of the poor conditions in the wall, he switched from the north to the south side late in the spring season – with the aim of ascending via the West Ridge and the Hornbein Couloir in the upper part of the North Face to the highest point at 8850 meters. Bad weather prevented his project. In previous years, Kuriki had tried six times in vain to climb Everest in fall: five times from the Nepalese, once from the Tibetan side (in 2016).

Only one complete finger

After his Everest attempt in fall 2012

In October 2012, the Japanese had made headlines worldwide when he had tried to reach the summit via the West Ridge. The then 30-year-old said that he had to turn back at about 8,000 meters because of a storm. On his descent, Kuriki sent an emergency call. Sherpas climbed up to him, and the Japanese was flown by rescue helicopter from Camp 2 at 6,400 meters to a hospital in Kathmandu. Kuriki suffered severe frostbite. Nine fingers had to be amputated; only stumps were left – and only one complete thumb. The handicap did not stop his ambition to climb Everest – quite the contrary.

Dujmovits: “No Harakiri guy”

Kuriki (l.) and Dujmovits (r.) in spring 2017

“I have not experienced him as a Harakiri guy or as a daredevil,” says Ralf Dujmovits, who – as reported – is currently staying with his partner, the Canadian climber Nancy Hansen for a scientific study in a hypoxia chamber of the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in Cologne for a month. Ralf had met Kuriki on the Everest north side in spring 2017. “He was pleasant, very open-minded and well organized. And he really listened to me.” On Dujmovits’s advice, the Japanese had finally given up his plan to ascend via the North Face. I ask Ralf whether Kuriki was obsessed with Everest. “When you do things like that, you have to be a little bit obsessed with an idea,” says Dujmovits. “He always wanted to be alone on the road, that says a lot about him.”

Ralf Dujmovits and Nancy Hansen

The doors have closed behind Ralf Dujmovits and Nancy Hansen. The so far only German climber who has scaled all 14 eight-thousanders and his Canadian partner moved in a 110-square-meter hypoxia chamber of the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in Cologne on Tuesday. As reported, the two mountaineers are participating in a study conducted by DLR in cooperation with the University of Texas to investigate whether extreme hypoxia can also have a positive side effect for human beings. US researchers from Texas found in two experiments with mice that heart muscle cells devided when the animals were exposed for two weeks to oxygen deficiency corresponding to conditions at 7,000 m. In mice which had previously been triggered myocardial infarctions, cardiac function improved after two weeks of hypoxia.

Medical control around the clock

Monitor in the control room

Ralf and Nancy, both healthy, are the subjects of the pilot study. They are to stay in the hypoxia chamber for about a month. In the first few weeks, acclimatization as on a Himalayan expedition is simulated. The oxygen percentage in the air will be gradually lowered and temporarily increased only twice in between – as if the two climbers would descend again to breathe thicker air. The last two weeks, the 56-year-old German and the 49-year-old Canadian are to  spend in a simulated height of 7,000 meters. The experiment can be stopped at any time in case serious problems arise. A DLR research team monitors Dujmovits’ and Hansen’s state of health around the clock. The daily schedule includes heart and lung function checks, blood and urine tests, fitness checks and so-called “cognition tests”, which check the reaction and perception of the subjects.

Yesterday, I visited the two climbers in their new “home”. That was possible on Wednesday for the last time without breathing mask. After more than half hour in a simulated altitude of about 3,700 meters, I felt a little bit dizzy. I preferred to do the interview with Ralf subsequently in thick air, by phone.

Ralf, you can not get out, there is no daylight, and the oxygen is lowered. That does not sound like a holiday apartment.

Nancy has a pulmonary function test

No, it isn’t a holiday apartment. But we have adjusted ourselves to it over a long period of time. We took it that way. We prepared ourselves mentally for almost nine months. Now we are here and actually feel quite well.

How does the prospect feel of being locked up for weeks and not being able to move to fresh air? That must be almost like torture for a climber.

Not even like that. I have the great privilege that I was allowed to be outside a lot. I do not see a big problem with being inside for five weeks now. We have been asked this frequently. But neither Nancy nor I are very worried that we can not handle it. We both can be very focused on special things. We have agreed to it and accept it as it is.

How did you prepare for this experiment? Have you filled up as much fresh air and nature as possible?

Skiing down to Monte Rosa Hut

We were in Valais for a week. We spent the final two nights on the Gnifetti Hut at 3,700 meters, followed by a night in the winter room of the Capanna Margherita on the Signalkuppe at 4,550 meters. So to say, we had pure nature for us. We were completely alone on the Capanna Margherita for 24 hours. We got up at 6.30 a.m. to enjoy the beautiful sunrise. Then we skied down to the Monte Rosa Hut through best powder snow. We really filled up, had a great time and, of course, a bit of pre-acclimatization too.

What motivates you to participate in this study?

Nancy had in her family environment some cases of heart attacks that ended either deadly or in very difficult recovery. Therefore, motivation for her is really to be able to bring something forward in the field of research. It’s similar with me. My interest in medicine has always been there and will continue. Being able to be possibly part of a new treatment for heart attack patients is a great story.

Maybe it’s also an additional motivation that this “seven-thousander”, which you want to scale, is still unclimbed.

Of course, it’s a bit of a first ascent. (laughs) But it’s not so much this first-time act that motivates us, but rather the support to get a step further in heart attack research.

Nitrogen tank in the DLR outdoor area

Are you also worried, be it mental or physical, when you consider the weeks in the hypoxia chamber?

There was a big unknown we both had a hard time with. It is not so easy to convert the percentage of oxygen in the air to (virtual) altitude. We have to rely on what Jens and Uli (Prof. Jens Tank and Dr. Ulrich Limper from DLR, the heads of the study) had predicted. But here we also have the opportunity to see how the air is composed by means of sensors installed in all rooms. From my feeling, that fits very well. Therefore, the trust that we must have in the team, is absolutely justified. We feel we are really in good hands here.

You are now the first complete day in the hypoxia chamber, at a quasi-altitude of about 3,700 meters. Does it feel different than on a mountain?

Of course, it’s different because the hardness factors such as strong sunlight, wind, cold, storm or snow fall are missing. So, of course, it’s much easier. But the thin air feels as we know it from high altitude – although the height is simulated by reducing the oxygen content. Normally, this percentage is always the same, no matter how high you are. (The hypoxia is caused by the lower pressure with which the oxygen is pressed into the lungs.) Here nitrogen is pumped into the rooms and thus the oxygen percentage decreases.

Do you think that you will learn something about yourself in the next few weeks?

Mobile climbing wall in the living area

I have already learned a lot. There are many, many little things. For example, we trained on the mobile climbing wall yesterday. It was specially set up for us here because we wanted to stay fit while climbing. We immediately noticed that not the lack of power in the arms or fingers will be the limiting factor, but the stamina in the thin air. We underestimated that. If we climb the overhanging part of the wall here, we’ll probably never get to the point where we run out of energy, but we’ll be at the limit in terms of endurance.

Does it help you to get through the whole thing as a couple?

That definitely makes it a lot easier. Yesterday at dinner I briefly imagined what it would be like if I were sitting here alone, maybe watching the news and then going to bed by myself. That would be terrible. You do not have anyone to talk to about what happened during the day. Being able to do this together with your partner is really great. We have a lot to laugh about. But we had also the first difficult moments during the night. Nancy suffered from headache, I had a slight pressure in my head. You talk about it, and then it’s a bit easier again.

Is it a bit like sitting in a base camp in bad weather and not being able to avoid each other?

You can really compare it. I remember for example 2009, when we were stuck in Lhotse Base Camp for three weeks in extremely bad weather and could only switch between our personal tent and the mess tent. It’s not much different here. However, we actually have more space to move, because the rooms here are very spacious. In addition, we have a lot of tasks to do during the day.

Ralf has a ECG

What do you expect, how will you come out of this experiment? As a physical wreck?

That’s the big unknown. We originally planned to go on expedition afterwards and use this extremely good acclimatization. However, cause we have no idea whether we are still fit enough to climb an interesting mountain, we have limited our plans to the Alps. There are e.g. on the south side of Mont Blanc so many high-altitude destinations. If we’re still fit enough, we’d rather go there instead of buying a permit, having to pay a liaison officer in advance, and then maybe having to say: We’re too weak, it’s just not possible.

But it’s also possible that you will be just lazily lying in the sun?

It’s possible too. After the time here in the chamber, the trade fair “Outdoor” will take place in Friedrichshafen. After that we’ll have a bit of time left without obligations. Maybe then we will be lying in the sun.

Enthusiastic welcome für Ralf Dujmovits (r.)

A joint week in Nepal is behind Ralf Dujmovits and me. As reported before, we inaugurated the first two parts of the new school building in Thulosirubari, a small mountain village about 70 kilometers east of Kathmandu, which could be built thanks to our aid project “School up!”. And we laid the foundation for the second construction phase. In Kathmandu I conducted some interviews – you could already read those with the expedition operators Arnold Coster and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, more will follow shortly. Ralf took the time to meet old acquaintances and to visit some of his favorite spots in the capital. The 56-year-old is so far the only German mountaineer who has scaled all 14 eight-thousanders. Only on Mount Everest in fall 1992 he used bottled oxygen. Later he tried seven times to climb the highest mountain in the world without breathing mask, seven times he failed to reach the summit – most recently in spring 2017 at 8,580 meters on the Tibetan north side of the mountain.

Ralf, we are now here in Kathmandu, not far from Mount Everest, about 160 kilometers as the crow flies. Is it not itching you a bit?

Not at all, at the moment. I have completed this story for me. Of course, I follow what’s happening on Everest. This is still very exciting. But for myself, I have closed the chapter Everest. 

Ralf, in the background Mount Everest

You have followed the events on Everest for decades and also experienced what has been going on there. How do you assess the development of recent years?

It seems that more and more people are coming to Everest. Actually I expected the number to decrease after the serious avalanche disaster in 2014 when 16 climbers died in the Khumbu Icefall. I thought that people would realize the dangers especially on the south side, in particular more and more climbers in a certain way jamming up to death. But apparently the opposite happens. The agencies speak of good booking numbers. Especially the Nepalese agencies are very active. I think it will be busier than ever before.

Does what’s going on on Everest have anything to do with climbing?

Of course, real climbing falls on the wayside when so many people try to climb on fixed ropes at the same time. People evaluate climbing differently. Maybe one or the other perceives climbing with 30 or 40 others within 50 meters of fixed rope as exciting. But that’s not my way. However, I think that’s up to each. And as long as the regulations to limit the number of climbers do not work, even actually do not exist, the situation will not change.

Queue on Everest

This discussion has been going on for years, not to say for decades. Do you think there will ever be rules that will make Everest less busy?

I am very skeptical because the Government of Nepal is not taking the problem seriously. It’s all about money. The rules that were issued most recently with the aim of excluding disabled climbers were completely wrong. Later the government had to withdraw this regulation. That was really no way to find a solution. I think it’s just about asking and proving whether people have been on a seven-thousander or maybe even on another eight-thousander before coming to Everest. I mean that’s the only way to reduce the number. But as long as some Nepalese agencies take every client who has the wherewithals, the situation will not change.

In recent years the Kangchung side of Everest, the eastern flank of the mountain, was completely deserted, and the attempts on the North Face or the Southwest Face could be counted on the fingers of one hand. It almost feels as if top climbers stay well clear of Everest.

Among so called “real” climbers it is almost frowned upon to be on Everest. The more modern destinations are unclimbed, difficult six-thousanders and challenging routes on seven-thousanders. In Pakistan, there are ten still unclimbed seven-thousanders. I think the younger, ambitious climber will find their destinations there as well.

Ralf in Everest high camp (in 2014)

Is it possible to speak of guaranteed safety on Everest when so many people ascend on the same route, even if they lay two parallel tracks?

There has never been a guaranteed safety. But even what is called a “99 percent safety” in the brochures does not work if so many people are en route at the same time. There are some bottlenecks on Everest, e.g. the “Yellow Band” (at 7,500 meters below the South Col) or the exposed summit ridge. Traffic jams will continue to occur there. And these jams remain a great danger in case of sudden changes in weather, which can never be ruled out.

Do you think that many climbers switch to the north side of Everest for safety reasons?

The tendency for more people climbing Everest from the Tibetan north side is noticable. Some big operators have switched to the north. Kari Kobler has been over there for a long time and does really a good job. The Chinese take their task very seriously, both as organizer of the base camp and in terms of mountain infrastructure. On the north side, the regulations are taken more seriously. It’s not just about money, but also about the climbers’ safety. Therefore, I can currently only advise: Go to the north side!

Musicians accompany us to the school

This roadblock is not an ordinary one. Five hundred meters in front of the school grounds in Thulosirubari, 70 kilometers east of the Nepalese capital Kathmandu, our journey in a jeep ends. Eight musicians stand in the middle of the dusty piste through the village. When Ralf Dujmovits – the first and so far only German mountaineer who scaled all 14 eight-thousanders – and I get out of the car, they begin to play for us on their traditional instruments. Behind the music playing village band  we ascend the last meters to the school.

Arrival

There a big event has been organized for us. Several hundred students, parents, teachers, local notables and other residents of Thulosirubari are awaiting us for the ceremonial inauguration and handing over of the first two parts of the building to the local school committee – made possible by your donations to our aid project “School up!”. The old school had been so badly damaged by the devastating earthquake in Nepal on 25 April 2015 that it had had to be demolished. At the end of June 2015, I had launched together with Ralf Dujmovits and the Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner “School up!” to rebuild the Thulosirubari school as soon as possible.

Final move in April

The new school building

“What a sight!”, Ralf calls when we approach the yellow painted new building. We high five. In a way, for both of us, a circle closes on this day. At the beginning of May 2015, a week after the quake, the 56-year-old mountaineer had driven with a team of doctors to the worst-hit district of Sindhupalchowk, where also Thulosirubari is located. “Where once was hubbub, is now ghostly silence. The people are standing around staring at the ruins of their homes. They do not even know where to start to clean up,” Ralf had told me at that time, adding that the old school was “just a pile of junk”. When I visited Thulosirubari in March 2016, almost a year after the disaster, the building was already demolished. The more than 500 children and adolescents were taught in corrugated iron sheds. In October 2016, thanks to “School up!”, construction work began. Now the first two buildings with a total of twelve classrooms are practically finished. In some places, the interior painting is not yet completed and some electrical work is still to be done. In April, the classes are finally to move to the new rooms.

New courage found

On this day of celebration, speeches are held for hours under a large tent roof in the schoolyard, and many documents and presents are handed over. Some dances of female students give fresh impetus to the program. The great gratitude that we experience is touching. We look into hundreds of happy faces. “You not only helped us, but also gave us new courage,” says Devi Dulal, chairman of the school committee. Inspired by the construction work on the new school, many Thulosirubari residents have started rebuilding their destroyed houses in the village.

Young audience

“Meanwhile, in Sindhupalchowk, work is being carried out on about 75 percent of the buildings that were damaged or destroyed by the 2015 earthquake,” says Sanjay Sapkota, who accompanied the construction of the new school in Thulosirubari as a technical advisor of the German aid organization “Nepalhilfe Beilngries”: “The government has learned from the disaster and adopted stricter building rules. They only released the financial support for new buildings when people were able to prove that they followed the new rules.” However, the governmental subsidy of 300,000 rupees per building (converted about 2,400 euros) “is just enough for the foundation”, says Sanjay.

Foundation for eight more classrooms

First stone for the next building

Ralf and I also lay a foundation stone on this feast day in Thulosirubari: for the second construction phase of “School up!”. Another building with eight classrooms is to be built, and a second toilet section. “Education is the best and most important input we might get in our youth,” says Ralf Dujmovits in his short speech during the celebration. “For the future of this school, for Thulosirubari, for all the kids here I wish best of luck. You have learned to go through very difficult times – and deserve to have really good times in the future.” Like Ralf, I thank the people of Thulosirubari for the overwhelmingly warm welcome: “I carry you deep in my heart and promise you to continue to stand up for ‘School up!’” Later, when I walk for a few minutes through Thulosirubari before returning to Kathmandu, villagers from all sides greet me – not just like an old acquaintance, but like a friend.

Thanks and a request

Thanks for your support, say Ralf (l.) and I

Ralf and I have received the thanks of the people of Thulosirubari on behalf of all donors of “School up!” – and, of course, also of Gerlinde and the staff of the “Nepalhilfe Beilngries”, who have implemented the construction of the first buildings with all their experience and great commitment. In order for the second construction phase, which will take about one to one and a half years, to be completed successfully, we need further donations for “School up!”. Once again here is the bank account:

Recipient: Nepalhilfe Beilngries e.V.
Bank: Volksbank Bayern Mitte eG/Germany
IBAN: DE05 7216 0818 0004 6227 07
BIC/SWIFT-Code: GENODEF1INP
Intended purpose: Gerlinde and Ralf School

If you write this intended purpose on the bank transfer, the money will go purposefully to Thulosirubari. I will continue to inform you in my blog about the progress of our project. A big thank you to all friends of “School up!”. You are great!

P.S. Thanks also to LOWA for the seven sacks of shoes, more than 200 pairs, which we have distributed to the children of Thulosirubari. And also to AB Sport in Cologne for the footballs, with which the school team will play from now on.

Ralf Dujmovits (l.) and Nancy Hansen in the still empty DLR living area

This seven-thousander has neither a summit, nor does it offer impressive views. It covers an area of ​​only around 110 square meters – and is located on the grounds of the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in Cologne. A hypoxia chamber within DLR’s medical research lab “:envihab” – the name stands for environment and habitat – will be comfortably furnished in the coming months.

Four weeks in the chamber

In mid-May, Ralf Dujmovits, the only German mountaineer who has climbed all 14 eight-thousanders, and his partner, the Canadian climber Nancy Hansen, will move in there for four weeks. They are taking part in a highly interesting hypoxia study conducted by DLR in cooperation with the University of Texas. The assumption: Although extreme oxygen deficiency threatens life, there could also be a positive effect on the body.

Stronger heart through hypoxia?

Ralf is wired for magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) …

US researchers from Texas found in two experiments with mice that heart muscle cells devided when the animals were exposed for two weeks to oxygen deficiency corresponding to conditions at 7,000 m. In mice which had previously been triggered myocardial infarctions, cardiac function improved after two weeks of hypoxia.

Now it is to be tested whether this effect also occurs in humans. For this purpose, Dujmovits and Hansen, both healthy, will spend two weeks in an oxygen-reduced environment comparable to 7,000 meters above sea level, as subjects of the pilot study. “We expect them as healthy, well-trained subjects to increase their cardiac output as well,” says DLR doctor Ulrich Limper during the first of several preliminary examinations in Cologne. For a further study, an experienced mountaineer is being sought as test person, who has already stayed at heights significantly higher than 7,000 meters and in addition has suffered a heart attack. He too is to spend two weeks in hypoxic conditions – of course only after he has completely recovered from the infarction.

Immediate termination possible

… and prepared for the examination of his brain

Ralf and Nancy first want to pre-acclimatize on the mountains in the Swiss canton of Valais and then go to the hypoxia chamber in Cologne in mid-May. In the first two weeks, the simulated altitude will be increased from 3,000 to 7,000 m by adding nitrogen and thus slowly lowering the oxygen concentration to eight percent (usually it is 21 percent). Over the last two weeks, Dujmovits and Hansen will have to hold out at the equivalent of an altitude of 7,000 m. Unlike in the mountains, however, the air pressure in the chamber remains constant, so that the experiment could be terminated immediately in case of complications.

“Completely crazy”

Blood draw from Nancy

He has done a lot of research and reading on the findings on long-time stay in high altitude, says Ralf Dujmovits: “In addition, my own experience of many nights in series above 7,000 m have led me to believe that the risk is within manageable limits. And if there are any problems, we can at any time press the red button and stop the study.” Nancy Hansen admits she has a queasy feeling. “Of course I am nervous about the risk! It’s completely crazy to live at the equivalent of 7,000 m for two weeks,” says the 49-year-old. “On the other hand, we can leave the study at any point if we feel too unwell. The bigger question for me is whether there will be long-term negative effects.“

Heart attacks in the family

Measuring the lung volume

Dujmovits had started studying medicine as a young man before fully dedicating himself to the mountains. The interest especially in high altitude medicine has remained, says the most successful German high altitude climber. “Being able to contribute to new findings in the field of myocardial infarction research is fascinating as well as exciting. Moreover, I have the opportunity to learn more about my body and its reaction to hypoxia.” Nancy Hansen agrees, adding family reasons for participating in the study: “My father had a massive heart attack 14 years ago. My uncle died of a heart attack. My young nephew has had two, 16-hour open heart surgeries. The topic is really important to me.”

Interesting for earth and space

This also applies to the DLR. “We are not just learning about the limits of the body of highly trained and specialized people who are comparable with pilots or astronauts and can serve as a study model for them, in our case Nancy and Ralf,” says Ulrich Limper, “but we also have the opportunity to improve the treatment of an acute heart disease, what would especially help the patients on earth.”

New school buildings in Thulosirubari (picture from today)

The finishing line of the first stage of our aid project “School up!” is in sight: The first two buildings of the new school in the Nepalese mountain village of Thulosirubari will most probably be ready for occupation before the beginning of winter. The doors are fitted these days,  Shyam Pandit, liaison man of the German aid organization “Nepalhilfe Beilngries” in the Himalayan state, writes to me. The windows are already installed. Subsequently, only the painting is missing. By the end of the month, says Shyam, the contractor wants to hand over the two first building units. Then the construction work will go on.

Carry on!

Doors and painting still missing

A third building is to be built, as well as toilets for girls and boys. So we have not yet arrived at the final destination. Along with the climbers Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits, I had launched “School up!” two and half years ago to rebuild purposefully the school of Thulosirubari, a mountain village about 70 km east of Kathmandu. The school had been destroyed by the devastating earthquake in Nepal in April 2015. Since then, several hundred children and adolescents have been taught in corrugated-iron huts, which were used as provisional class rooms. In September 2016, the foundation stone was laid for the new school.

Your money works

Schoolchildren in Thulosirubari

At this point I would like to thank all of you who made with your donations possible what we have achieved so far. Alone through my donation bike tour “School up! River down!” in September, when I drove with my folding bike almost 1,500 kilometers from the source to the mouth of the Rhine in twelve days, we collected approximately 2,800 euros. You can see in the pictures that your money really works. I ask you to continue supporting “School up!”. Do you want to do a good deed in the Advent season? We are happy about every euro. Once again the bank account of “School up!”:

Recipient: Nepalhilfe Beilngries e.V..
Bank: Volksbank Bayern Mitte eG/Germany
IBAN: DE05 7216 0818 0004 6227 07
BIC/SWIFT-Code: GENODEF1INP
Intended purpose: Gerlinde and Ralf School

If you indicate this intended purpose, the money will flow directly into the construction work of the school in Thulosirubari. I will continue to keep you informed about the progress of the project in my blog. Promised!

Departure in morning fog

I will sleep well, no matter how loud it is. “I have to warn you,” said the hotel staff at the front desk. “We have three wedding parties today, and music might be played until 6 a.m.” The hotel in the village of Altrip, located on the so-called “Blue Lagoon” about 15 kilometers from the gates of Ludwigshafen, specializes in the align of weddings. On the other hand, it also offers a special discount for bike tourists. Exemplary! And so I stood around 6 p.m. in my bike pants in the hotel lobby, a few meters away from me one of the three brides – and many guests who were dressed up. “Don’t worry,” I answered to the receptionist. “I’m all run down, I’ll sleep like a stone.”

Dead end

Idyll near the Murg estuary

Another 130 kilometers are in my bones. This morning, Ralf Dujmovits brought me and my folding bike back to the spot on the Rhine near Söllingen, where I had finished yesterday’s stage of “School up! River down!” By noon, I had – now almost obligatory – once more lost my way. I followed a bike path sign, which obviously did not belong to the official Rhine bike tour – and suddenly I stood in front of the Murg, a tributary of the Rhine, without a bridge at that point. So I had to drive almost two kilometers inland to get back on the right track.

When father and son get lost

Shared path

In Karlsruhe I had arranged to meet my son Jan, who is temporarily working in the town of Stuttgart and wanted to accompany me for a while. We found ourselves, but then not the right way. We followed a bicycle sign, which led us to a pebbly path right on the Rhine, which was almost impossible to drive with a loaded bike. Not enough, we landed in an industrial area from which there was only one way out: back. We lost three quarters of an hour. After this misfortune we decided to switch to the other side of the Rhine which Jan had already rode by bike. A wise decision. Here we could roll comfortably. Asphalted and well signposted paths. No wind and only a short rain shower, the end of which we could wait for.

Achilles says hello

At the gates of Speyer

In the late afternoon our paths separated in Speyer. Jan drove back to Stuttgart by train, while I decided to continue cycling a bit further to the north at a moderate speed. After nine hours on the saddle, I decided to finish today’s stage. I could hardly have driven much further. Climbing stairs does not work so well, my Achilles tendons are stressed by the constant pedaling. My calves anyway. But otherwise I’m fine. Tomorrow morning, the next stage along the Rhine towards the town of Mainz is waiting for me. After a deep sleep, no matter how loud the three wedding companies may be. Let them celebrate!

Not so alone as it looks like

It was the day of encounters. At first I cycled – for a change, in sunshine – along with a Swiss from the town of Zug, in his mid-60s, tanned, on a mountain bike that had already seen better days. “I’ve stopped working after 45 years,” the cyclist told me. “And now I am fulfilling my life dream. I always wanted to make a long bike trip.” I asked him how much time he took for the ride along the Rhine. “I’ll see how far I get until winter,” he said, grinning. In the further conversation it turned out that he was also a passionate mountaineer. He had climbed all four-thousanders of his home country, said the Swiss: “Actually, I had always dreamed of climbing Mount Everest one day. But tourism on this mountain has nothing to do with the way of climbing that I like.”

By ferry to the other side

Also a companion

With a heavy heart, I had to allow the Swiss to race ahead, I could not keep up his surprisingly high pace in the long run. But I did not go alone for long. My next companion was a 77-year-old local who is usually doing a half-day bike trip every day, in good weather. “I have to be back home by noon,” he told me. “Otherwise, my wife worries.” I owe him that I did not have to go a long way around the town of Rust (which most people know because of the leisure park nearby). This was a peninsula, the local expert explained to me at the decisive parting of the ways. Therefore, it was better to change to the French side, and to return later to the other side with a ferry. No sooner said than done. This was a really good advice. And by the way, I added with France the fifth nation on my tour down the Rhine after Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria and Germany.

Over the creek

From stone to stone

Shortly after I had said good-bye to the senior, I landed in a dead end. “Have you not seen the sign?”, asked a man who was standing with his old bike on the Rhine. I had overlooked the sign. I now had two alternatives, the man said: either to go back one and a half kilometers or follow him on a secret path: “But you have to cross a streambed. I get over there with my bike. But I do not know whether you can do it too with your packed bike.” I thought: What he is able to do, I also can. I followed him on the trampled path with nettles and brambles. The streambed was not dry, as I had supposed. Instead, I had to carry my folding bike across some boulders, in between water flowed. I took off my saddlebags and brought first the bike and then the luggage over the bridge of stones. After all, I could continue my journey without a long detour.

Moral support

With Nancy Hansen (l.) and Ralf Dujmovits (r.)

The fourth encounter of the day was a planned one. In the town of Kehl, I met Ralf Dujmovits – the so far only German climber who has scaled all 14 eight-thousanders – and his life companion, the Canadian climber Nancy Hansen. They wanted to accompany me on their mountain bikes a bit of my way along the Rhine and thus support me morally. Together with Ralf and the Austrian mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, I had launched the campaign “School up!” at the end of June 2015 to rebuild the school in the small mountain village of Thulosirubari, which was destroyed by the earthquake in Nepal on 25 April that year. My donation bike trip “School up! River down” is to flush further money into the project, so that we can pay the ongoing construction work at the new school.

End of the day trip after 125 kilometers

Water from above and below

I really enjoyed sharing a bit of my way with Ralf and Nancy. Besides, I almost forgot my tired legs because of the good talks. Even a heavy downpour, the first of the day, could not cloud our good mood. In the town of Söllingen we finished the bike day – for me after 125 kilometers, for Nancy and Ralf after 45 kilometers. I spend the night at their house in the town of Bühl. Tomorrow morning they will bring me back to Söllingen, where I will continue my journey down the Rhine. I have now managed 589 kilometers in total. Some were quite exhausting, but encounters like today’s compensate for all the hardships.