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Nanga Parbat summit attempt failed

Nothing to be gained for David Goettler (© The North Face)

Nothing to be gained for David Goettler (© The North Face)

Over and out! Once again, climbers find Nanga Parbat in winter a hard nut to crack. David Goettler and Tomek Mackiewicz have aborted their summit attempt. “Too windy, too cold, too dangerous,” twittered the Italian Emilio Previtali, who was keeping contact with the German and Polish climber by radio. “We went up, we did our best and we pushed hard”, said David. Both climbers descended. Lower on the mountain, Pawel Dunaj and Jacek Teler also decided to turn back. “They are collecting all the gears and ropes. Everyone is fine”, writes Emilio. This sounds like the definite end of both expeditions. Earlier it was said that the third summit attempt would be probably the last for this winter. Already on Friday, the Italian Simone Moro had returned to base camp due to stomach trouble. “Hard to put all my emotions into words after these days”, David Goettler wrote on Facebook, “from being sad that we had to turn around to being happy that I could take a look at the Diamir side, being above 7200 m, being now safe back in BC and being home soon!”

Daniele Nardi gives up

Daniele Nardi packs his things

Daniele Nardi packs his things

Also on the Diamir side of the mountains all signs point to farewell. “It is a difficult but necessary decision at this point to return home”, the Italian climber Daniele Nardi wrote in his blog. He could wait for a thousand weather windows, but the conditions for a solo ascent had not been there until now and would not occur probably this winter. Daniele was about to climb Nanga Parbat solo via the Mummery rib. The Italian admits that even his avalanche experience during his last exploration ascent had contributed to his decision to end the expedition immediately. “It is better to be prudent, to wait for another opportunity, already thinking about future projects.” Nanga Parbat is still awaiting its first winter ascent .

Polish climbers want to stay

Update 2.3.: The members of the Polish expedition make clear that they do not yet want to leave Nanga Parbat. “We are planning a few days of rest in basecamp and we are going up again”, Tomek Mackiewicz is quoted in the expedition blog. “Our acclimatisation is superb, we have plenty of power. The spirits are high, we had a vote today and everyone said: We are staying!” Now they would only need to get their visa and the climbing permit extended. “We will keep trying …” Tough guys!


1. March 2014 | 15:49