Nobukazu Kuriki

Next try. In these days, Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki will start his second summit attempt on Mount Everest. As reported before, his first try had failed last weekend, at about 7,700 meters, the level of the Geneva Spur, 200 meters below the South Col. Kuriki is the only climber who tries to scale Everest this fall, climbing alone without bottled oxygen. I have succeeded in contacting the 33-year-old at Everest Base Camp.

Nobukazu, what went wrong during your first summit attempt?

There was deeper snow than I expected, and it took too long to plow through it.

You decided to pitch your tent for your highest camp at about 7,700 meters instead of the usual South Col. Why?

I realized that it took too long to make the trail carrying my tent up to South Col. And it was easier to pitch my tent stably with deep snow.

Nobukazu on Everest

Will you change anything for the second try?

I’m going to pitch my tent at the same altitude between 7,600 and 7,700 meters. But after having left my luggage at the tent, I’m going to make it through the snow up to South Col and then come back to the tent to rest. I’ll start the summit push either that night or the next.

What makes you confident that you will be able to reach the summit this time?

It’s a tough challenge physically, but it’s my fifth try and I’m used to it. I’ve adapted to high altitude, and the weather seems to be holding up.

How do you feel mentally and physically?

Mentally, I’m in good condition. I will enjoy climbing including all the hardship that comes with it. Physically, you can never be perfect at this altitude, but I’ll be mindful of breathing so that my body can move up the mountain well.