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with Stefan Nestler

Next summit attempt on Nanga Parbat

Departure for summit attempt: Ali, Alex, Tamara and Simone (from l. to r.)

Departure for summit attempt: Ali, Alex, Tamara and Simone (from l. to r.)

The weather window on Nanga Parbat opens. “Looks like the window is here, the good one, the definitive one”, Igone Mariezkurrena writes from the Base Camp on the Diamir side of the 8,125-meter-high mountain in Pakistan. “The one that, if everything goes OK and bodies respond, can give Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger the chance for pushing for this still unclimbed Nanga Parbat winter summit.” Early this morning the quartet set off from Base Camp and climbed on the Kinshofer route directly to Camp 2 at 6,100 meters.

Low wind

After three weeks of bad weather in Base Camp that had reduced the climbers more or less to inaction, weathermen expect stable winter weather on Nanga Parbat without precipitation. Starting Wednesday, the strong wind in the summit region should slow down. Alex, Ali, Simone and Tamara hope that the storm has blown most of fresh snow out of the upper parts of the route. In recent days, many avalanches have swept down (watch the video below). But the climbers will obtain assurance only on their ascent. The same applies to the question of how well acclimatized the four summit aspirants still are.

Heading home

There are no more candidates left on Nanga Parbat. Last week – when I, absolutely offline, had a good romp skiing in Tyrol – Tomek Mackiewicz abandoned his plan to return to Base Camp and dare another summit attempt. The Pole, for whom a crowdfunding campaign brought in nearly 6,000 Euro, is now heading back. Reportedly, the Brazilian-born US citizen Cleo Weidlich has also decided to strike the tent on the Rupal side after two of her three Nepalese Climbing Sherpas have left the expedition. We can only speculate about the reasons. Cleo, Pema Tshiring Sherpa, Temba Bhote und Dawa Sangay Sherpa had arrived on Nanga Parbat only at the end of January. Shortly afterwards, the bad weather had begun. Like the climbers on the Diamir side, Weidlich and the three Sherpas should hardly have left the Base Camp.


22. February 2016 | 17:06