Aurora Borealis, aka the Northern Lights. A beautiful painting on a big black canvas. It was always my childhood dream to come here to observe this astronomical activity and so I decided to begin my solo trip in Tromsøya, one of Norway’s many thousand islands.

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”Menstruation? … I don’t know.

Perhaps something happened during my teenage years.

I don’t know… Don’t know.”

These hesitant words are spoken by the first police constable in India to have undergone Genital Reconstruction Surgery. Once Lalita, he became Lalit Bhau Salve.

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